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Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 2:04 am
by Paul3eb
was at the last bolt of relinquary. wasn't clipped yet when i was stupid and pumped and was trying to clip before grabbing the jug.. long story short, broke a hold and took the plunge down to just above the first bolt. most fun i've had on a fall in a while.. i think i was smiling the whole way down
Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 2:30 am
by Power2U
Broke a hold? From where I was sitting it looked like you just plain old fell
Saying a hold broke always makes us feel better though doesn't it... I am a guilty party too
Good to see you at the crag today, and that was a nice whipper regardless.
Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 2:43 am
by dipsi
ynot wrote:I watched someone fall half the way down Rock Wars facing out. He had to have been runnout. He was yelling "TAKE!" repeatedly the whole time he was falling.
Oh yeah! He kept on an on yelling, "TAKE!".....for-ev-er! That was wild!
Posted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:15 pm
by tomdarch
specialed and I had an exciting warm up on Saturday. We were probably a bit undercaffinated and neither of us noticed the 'X' marks on a chunk of rock between the second and third bolts on Darwin Loves You at Volunteer wall. It was 'just a warm up' so I wasn't exactly the most attentive belayer. I heard an 'umph' noise above me, glanced up and saw Ed falling in some awkward way. I was yanked up towards the first bolt pretty quickly, and a split second later heard a serious 'thud' to my left. It turns out Ed pulled the 'flake' off, wrestled it in the air while taking a lead fall and ditched it off to the side. He ended up with some pretty good scrapes up and down his left arm. I'm pretty sure that if he had just let it fall, I would have taken a 40 lb. chunk of rock to the head.
Just doing our part to clean up the routes and make things safer.
Posted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:02 pm
by chriss
tomdarch wrote:specialed and I had an exciting warm up on Saturday. We were probably a bit undercaffinated and neither of us noticed the 'X' marks on a chunk of rock between the second and third bolts on Darwin Loves You at Volunteer wall. It was 'just a warm up' so I wasn't exactly the most attentive belayer. I heard an 'umph' noise above me, glanced up and saw Ed falling in some awkward way. I was yanked up towards the first bolt pretty quickly, and a split second later heard a serious 'thud' to my left. It turns out Ed pulled the 'flake' off, wrestled it in the air while taking a lead fall and ditched it off to the side. He ended up with some pretty good scrapes up and down his left arm. I'm pretty sure that if he had just let it fall, I would have taken a 40 lb. chunk of rock to the head.
Just doing our part to clean up the routes and make things safer.
If I remember right, its the jugs you clip the anchors off that are going to blow on someone. Kind of wondered if that was how the route got its name.
Posted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:13 pm
by ReachHigh
Eek! I was on the route the weekend before.
Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 2:12 am
by B.J.
Right before I climbed it myself, I had overheard a guy talking about taking a fall near the top of Buckeye Testpiece. According to him, only a #1 Camalot saved him from decking. Having heard that did little to calm my beginning trad leader nerves...
Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 12:01 pm
by Huggybone
If you fall at the top of that route, you will deck. Unless your belayer can RUN. I don't even remember a #1 placement.
Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 1:42 am
by B.J.
Huggybone wrote:If you fall at the top of that route, you will deck. Unless your belayer can RUN. I don't even remember a #1 placement.
Again, I only overheard that. It's probably an exaggeration to some degree, but I'm sure there's some truth to it. I don't remember a #1 placement either, but I do remember staining my pants as I got up to the ledge. I can also imagine that falling from there and living to tell about it would be rather exciting indeed.
Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 3:52 pm
by kirker
Your first fall on pro gets your attention.