Re-equipping routes

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
TradMike
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Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

Try some of the sport routes at Hueco Tanks or, albeit easy, Snake Dike on Halfdome. Now that is Spicy and very memorable/rewarding.
haas
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Post by haas »

Snake Dike on Half Dome isn't a sport route though, you need gear for the 5.7 pitch down low. I will say the 5.4 bolted pitches are runout, and so are most of the sport routes in Hueco, but many were intended to take suplimental gear, hence not true "sport routes"
Spragwa
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 4:05 pm

Post by Spragwa »

J-Rock wrote:I'd ask Porter why he put the bolts where he did. Maybe he had a reason for it. Perhaps he wanted it to be spicey and dicey. Likewise, it could have been a mistake that was never corrected.
My understanding is that Porter doesn't much care anymore.
Jesus only knows that she tries too hard. She's only trying to keep the sky from falling.

-Everlast
Sunshine
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Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 5:20 pm

Post by Sunshine »

Actually, Porter does care very much. I spoke with him recently. He is the man! I think he likes rock climbing!
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
Spragwa
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 4:05 pm

Post by Spragwa »

Wow that's really cool. Porter should come back to the Red and get on some of the new routes then. I bet he'd have fun.
Jesus only knows that she tries too hard. She's only trying to keep the sky from falling.

-Everlast
Sunshine
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Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 5:20 pm

Post by Sunshine »

That would be too cool...I have never seen him climb in real life, only on the vids.
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
TradMike
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Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

haas wrote:Snake Dike on Half Dome isn't a sport route though, you need gear for the 5.7 pitch down low. I will say the 5.4 bolted pitches are runout, and so are most of the sport routes in Hueco, but many were intended to take suplimental gear, hence not true "sport routes"
I didn't have supplemental gear when I did them hence to me they were memorable sport routes. And Snake Dike IS a sport route. It was done that way on the first ascent. Most people just make it a mixed route for safety.
neuroshock
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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 7:01 pm

Post by neuroshock »

TradMike wrote:And Snake Dike IS a sport route. It was done that way on the first ascent. Most people just make it a mixed route for safety.
i would think that it, as many other bolted routes, are not "sport" routes. i've always understood that the "safe" falls on bolts and the character of the route were what made them sport routes.

heady, largely run out, DFU routes are bolt protected "trad" lines.

i'd say that Walk on the Wild Side at Joshua Tree is a bolt protected trad line...in no way would i call it a sportclimb.
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

bolt protected trad line....never heard that one, but I like it...

how about calling it a mixed route....a few bolts and a few loose marbles.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Andrew
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

Is stone mountain sport climbing :?:
Living the dream
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