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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:41 pm
by Artsay
To me, if you are a 5.10 climber on a 5.10 route and you don't "even know how to try and do a move" (-ninesixfour), then you're not a proficient climber.

Personally, I'm attracted to OW because it kicked my ass at first. But I learned technique and now it's not "as bad". But there are still routes (i.e. The Specimen) where I'm like, "no way that's 5.10!" until I see someone proficient at climbing OW climb it with ease.

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:17 pm
by JR
You could not be more right. The specimen is not 5.10.

Come on. You have never tried the moves on the specimen. Did you just stand there and say Ray I do not know how to try this move. Ok maybe you did.

So you didn't send the Specimen or may never send the Specimen. You still don't consider yourself a proficient all around climber? Artsay we can go 'round and 'round with this, but you are not going to sell me on you not being proficient.

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:43 pm
by Artsay
I want to be more proficient so I climb a lot of routes...good, bad, steep, slab, roofs, OW...so I'm just getting more and more proficient, I guess.

But one thing is for sure...proficient or not: I *will* send the Specimen.

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:48 pm
by JR
You go girl.snap.

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:53 pm
by Artsay
Damn straight! That route is bad ass! :P

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 1:50 am
by pigsteak
How'd Leubben fare on When Doves Cry? I've met him several times, and he is very kind and generous.

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:01 am
by 512OW
Horatio Felacio wrote:
512OW wrote:You should probably stay in the gym where you can make routes fit your strengths. Good luck with it.
you should stay at the shitpile trad crags in the middle of nowhere bragging to girls 10 years your younger about how back in the day you could climb a 5.12- offwidth, and where you don't have to get on routes that require a different technique than chimneying or offwidthing.
I do, thanks.

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:05 am
by 512OW
Toy wrote:I'm never surprised at how the anonymity and distance provided by a bbs like this one makes balls grow pumpkin-sized and egos swell to Napoleonic proportions. Just so you know OW, 964 has been in a gym since,well, off-widths were "in". And that's great that you are "proficient" at your precious specialty. Let us stand back while you stroke you ego, and whatever else you decide to massage in your spare time (and don't bother with the stand back or massage jokes because they're played, playa). Neither AM or 964 said the thing should be up-rated! They just said it was hard, period. You blasted them for being honest! Lame.
Oh and if I was proficient at something antequated I too would come on here and blast awayrandomly just to stir shit up. Hey Ray, I'm a stud at DOS commands. Are you impressed?

Brian
Actually, you're wrong. OW is hardly my specialty, it just so happens that I'm as good at it as I am at handcracks...

Also, I didn't blast anybody until I was blasted. I merely stated that the last pitch was by no means harder than the other pitches, none of which are as difficult as B3.

Read up before you speak up.

Playa.

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:09 am
by 512OW
Toy wrote:c'mon Haas. The example is fine. Shaq does admit he is bad at free throws, but he also is quick to point out that that doesn't keep him from being the best center ever. This is exactly my point. A lack of OW skill only doesn't make you a bad climber. It just makes you bad at OW. By that logic, my general practicioner would be a bad doctor because he can't dissect a bowel.
No, it doesn't make you a bad climber. It just makes you unable to accurately assess the rating of an offwidth, which whomever it was tried to do....

And being proficient has nothing to do with being the "best". Shaq, by the way, isn't the best center ever.

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:12 am
by 512OW
ninesixfour wrote:512OW-
I think you're stretching it again. I haven't climbed plastic (not that there's anything wrong with that) in many years. You're right; I'm not proficient at OW climbing nor did I say I was a good all-around climber. As has already been stated, we climbed The Quest and it was hard for us. When compared to other similar style climbs we'd done (WW, NE of Higher Cathedral) it felt pretty stout.
You can call me one-dimensional but Astroman's climbing resume is second to none and the point is that his opinion of the grade on a route like The Quest is well worth listening to. From The Nose in a day (over 10 years ago) , Astroman, The Rostrum, The Salathe, Red Zinger on-sight, to 5.13 sport routes in France, some scary stuff in NC, bouldering V9 in the early 90s....he's done it all, the very definition of a well-rounded rock climber.
I never called you one dimensional OR said you climbed on plastic. I said you should stay in there and make routes that fit your strengths. If you can create routes that fit your strengths outdoors, by all means, do so.

Thanks for the resume, I appreciate it.

When you're off his jock, go learn to climb OW.