andy,
no the problem I am talking about is a lip travers on slopers..no cracks involved. we should make plans to hook up down there this fall, and we can share beta on what we know... this is going to be awesome if all get involved.
may I make a suggestion..perhaps we don't give personal opinions on what are "great" routes, and what are the so so routes...just list the bolt count, area, general description, and leave it at that....seems to me saying this route or this route is best is so subjective. I have one route left, and I will have done all the 12a's in Ulners last book. I wanted to do them all last fall to get a feel for the consistency of grading down there. Wouldn't you know that the one I have not redpointed is the slab at railroad..lol..now have to wait for good temps. It was a fun project though, uncovering routes that had accumulated some moss.
Need Illinois guidebook
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andy_lemon
- Posts: 1566
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am
Now, there are more 12a's if you walk past Hidden Peaks to the South Falls. tons of new routes down that way, unfortanately no body I know climbs down there so who bolted most of the stuff is a mystery to me.
Did you see the j-falls bouldering area? Did you see the section I had listed as Railroad Rock Area? Is your problem in the same area...
About being subjective... We are only subjective because we have nothing to lose such as money on a print contract. We make our opinions know since for the past 2 or so years the parking lot gets packed out every weekend in the fall with people from Colorado, Pennsylvania, Michigan, Georgia, New York... etc. Most of which have never been there. You wouldn't believe the ammount of people that have printed off our guidebook to J-falls and actually use it. But what else are you going to do when the actual guide is out of publication?
Did you see the j-falls bouldering area? Did you see the section I had listed as Railroad Rock Area? Is your problem in the same area...
About being subjective... We are only subjective because we have nothing to lose such as money on a print contract. We make our opinions know since for the past 2 or so years the parking lot gets packed out every weekend in the fall with people from Colorado, Pennsylvania, Michigan, Georgia, New York... etc. Most of which have never been there. You wouldn't believe the ammount of people that have printed off our guidebook to J-falls and actually use it. But what else are you going to do when the actual guide is out of publication?
Not a bitch.
right, I hear ya. It is good this guide is being used.
There is a picture on the Gallery Section that is labelled as Earthbound Misfit. I am almost sure that is the first of the "Throat" routes. Or at least Chris Schmick bolted it with that intention. I can ask him next time I see him. As far as those 12a's you are talking about by the south falls....I am assuming you mean lines line "Aggro Sheen" and the hard 12 next to it? Those are both Chris' routes.
I have not checked out the bouldering section you mentioned.
There is a picture on the Gallery Section that is labelled as Earthbound Misfit. I am almost sure that is the first of the "Throat" routes. Or at least Chris Schmick bolted it with that intention. I can ask him next time I see him. As far as those 12a's you are talking about by the south falls....I am assuming you mean lines line "Aggro Sheen" and the hard 12 next to it? Those are both Chris' routes.
I have not checked out the bouldering section you mentioned.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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andy_lemon
- Posts: 1566
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am
That is my picture actually... the route to the right of it is Psychotherapy 10c. Print it and show Chris, he can tell you for sure. That would be a HUGE help. Also, if you know the names and grades of the routes by the south falls please feel free to add because I know there are a few more 10's and 9's down that way that people would just love to get on (Me actually). I feel much safer not having to onsight things, it makes spraying easier too. 
Next time your down, check out that bouldering section. There is a crack on a slab that runs right to left. It looks somewher like a V0-V2 but deffinately a must do. You can tell boulderers have been cleaning problems there for some while now. It is definately a change from the Zig Zags, Yosemite Slab, and Reefer Madness.
Have you ever walked past Railroad Rock? Back in the day Jim Thurmond, Ulner, etc started development along the tracks... those routes were excluded from the guide because climbers came to an agreement that they would not climb down that far anymore (railroad company safety thing). I sware there must be at least another 100 routes on free standing boulders and along the main cliff that were bolted in the 80's that nobody knows about. Freakin awesome.
Next time your down, check out that bouldering section. There is a crack on a slab that runs right to left. It looks somewher like a V0-V2 but deffinately a must do. You can tell boulderers have been cleaning problems there for some while now. It is definately a change from the Zig Zags, Yosemite Slab, and Reefer Madness.
Have you ever walked past Railroad Rock? Back in the day Jim Thurmond, Ulner, etc started development along the tracks... those routes were excluded from the guide because climbers came to an agreement that they would not climb down that far anymore (railroad company safety thing). I sware there must be at least another 100 routes on free standing boulders and along the main cliff that were bolted in the 80's that nobody knows about. Freakin awesome.
Not a bitch.
How near to the tracks is this stuff? The RR company owns right-of-way, but that rarely extends more than 10 or 20 feet from the tracks. They have every right to restrict access to their right-of-way, but there are reasonable limits to their power. Also, do the horsepackers use that area? If the horsepackers do, then we should have access as well. Does access to that area require crossing/entering the RR right-of-way? If so, then it might be reasonable to not use that area. If it's a matter of getting to the climbs, then it might require rapping in and jugging out away from the tracks.
Bacon is meat candy.
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andy_lemon
- Posts: 1566
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am
NO dude, if you walk past railroad rock and just forget for one second that there is a gully you can walk up to access the top of the cliff... just keep walking. You won't miss them, they start right on the other side of the gully. I could be wrong, this might be all new development.
The routes are no closer to the tracks then Railroad Rock.
Christian, the fact that I tell people that routes exist does not jeopardise access in this area. The choice a climber makes to climb in these parts may jeopardise access in this area. For instance, we know routes exist at Stoneface (now closed to climbing) but that does not jeopardise access, the climber climbing there does. I never climb here or there.
The routes are no closer to the tracks then Railroad Rock.
Christian, the fact that I tell people that routes exist does not jeopardise access in this area. The choice a climber makes to climb in these parts may jeopardise access in this area. For instance, we know routes exist at Stoneface (now closed to climbing) but that does not jeopardise access, the climber climbing there does. I never climb here or there.
Not a bitch.
I have walked a bunch of the wall past RR..I know of about 15 routes down that way (Dissertation), but to be honest, the 5-6 I have been on were not that high of caliber. PLus, after about 10 mnutes, the clliff breaks down..Is there more cliff past that? I have not walked any further. There seems to be a bit of potential down that way, but I think there is more untapped stuff at the promised land with a higher quality of stone.
The rock that I am familiar with down that way is not at all close to the RR tracks. RR Rock is closer than any of the main cliff line, so i would be suprised that there is a "safety" issue. I just talked to Shawn at Upper Limits, and we decided that you have correctly identified Earthbound Misfit. Chris bolted it about 3-4 years ago, and it was originally a TR...so, that, in essence means there are only two "throat" routes there.
The rock that I am familiar with down that way is not at all close to the RR tracks. RR Rock is closer than any of the main cliff line, so i would be suprised that there is a "safety" issue. I just talked to Shawn at Upper Limits, and we decided that you have correctly identified Earthbound Misfit. Chris bolted it about 3-4 years ago, and it was originally a TR...so, that, in essence means there are only two "throat" routes there.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
