low budget climbing diet

Post by **rockstar** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 5:00 pm

no the video is of epitaph on tombstone.

thanks for the history lesson! i had no idea there were so many hard cracks! something to apsire for i guess. although i have talked to a few 5.13+ crack climbers that claim cracks can't be harder than 5.13+. maybe they just haven't gotten on em yet!

Post by **rockstar** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 10:15 pm

i watched the puss pa mofar video. pretty rad. plus the music was bitchin!

Post by **marathonmedic** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 10:19 pm

Any suggestions for where I could find these videos?

Post by **rockstar** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 11:24 pm

www.drtopo.com/quebec/zebree.html

www.highsport.se/news/old/puss_pa.mov

i was mistaken the bad ass music is on drtopo's video. can't see puss pa mofar or whatever but watching him place the gear is amazing. very fluid.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 3:03 am

That is some damn smooth gear placement. Kind of makes me wonder how many times he's plugged some of those pieces. But isn't it kind of close to "cheating" when the rope is pre-clipped? Just seems to violate some sacred principle or something. Seems like it might be hard on your harness if you fell that way, too.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 3:43 am

rockstar wrote:no he said 14a in europe. 13 something in america.

I thought I read that somewhere too....but after looking it up, I found about 25 cases of him saying 14 in Yosemite, 14d in Europe...

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 3:56 am

512OW wrote:Puss Pa Morfar or something like that (translates to Kiss on Grandpa, I think...) was called 14a. There is a video at www.highsport.se/filmer. Watch the way that guy places gear...its all already racked in order and clipped into the rope...he just pulls it and plugs it....hell yeah...

I really don't understand how that's working... how does his gear not slip down the rope back to his belayer?

Post by **Alan Evil** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 4:07 am

I was wondering that too. Velcro maybe? If you watch at one point he makes a high reach for a hold and looks down at his feet before he makes the grab.

What makes that climb a 14? Or a 13 for that matter?

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 4:10 am

You'd ask the same thing watching Ho do Welcome to Ol' Kentuck. Just because the climber's such a mutant that they do 5.13's with ease, it doesn't mean they're not insanely difficult, ya know? He does make it look like a 5.9, though... crazy.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 4:26 am

I was thinking that he had the gear clipped normally to his harness except that the rope was running through the biners. Fine and dandy until you fall and rip your gear loops off. Maybe some of those breakaway-type gear loops that wrap most of the way around biners?

Has that scrawny bitch done Kentuck more then once?