RRC Archives

Damn, rhunt! You're having a kick ass week!

Clearly there are some people who have a very good sense of what ratings should be. However, it seems to me that the question being asked is, should people rate a climb here on the online guide if they haven't sent. I am of the opinion that the average person on the web site should not rate climbs on the site until they have sent (dieties excluded).

Dieties & superheros, right?

Sorry man, superheros too, especially those with military rank.

sweet I am gonna have a kick ass weekend too! I can't wait to send and almost send..wait I've been almost sending all freaking season.

Thanks for the prophetic words Allah, BTW a little rat that lives in a hueco told me you will send your arete climb on your second burn on Saturday...he also mentioned something about needing more toilet paper

Not only can you rate climbs without sending them, you can downrate climbs that you've never even been on! Gets done all the time.

And if you are surprised to flail on a route that you thought you'd hike, then it's an automatic sandbag,... way underrated. See, this rating business is easy.

Wes wrote:Sorry, "done" should have said "been on". No sending just yet. Maybe this year if I get back on it.

You had it in three hangs!! You're on a sending streak - must be the belayer you have these days. Her braids bring good luck.

climbs should be rated by their single hardest move rhunt, and all climbs not just 12a and harder because thats how it is in real life. muscle memory is a large factor to me for ratings. The ratings pumpy climbs get should be specified as onsight ratings if anything. you may not agree, but i climb a grade harder at the red thatn any other crag in the country. And you all know why.

What an insight hashrant. I always thought BOHICA was 11d. I guess it means nothing that it has 80 freakin' moves

hashplant5, I totally agree, climbs should be rated by there single hardest move. That is how it was when the rating system was invented. But that was way before sport climbing and the Red River Gorge. If you read through the begining of John Bronaugh's guide book, he writes about how the long jug haul sport climbs at the red are NOT rated by their single hardest move BUT by a general consensus of the pump factor. That consensus was determined by a handfull of people who were doing all the bolting back in the late 80's and early 90's. You have to realize that the Red Rive Gorge is a very very unique, it holds the most overhanging rock in the world, unless we invent a whole new rating system for the red we are going to have to stick with the way the original sport route developers decided to rate these types of climbs, which is how new sport routes are rated today. If we go with the single hardest move on a climb like Mercy the Huff 12b/c, for example, I am guessing that route would be rated 11c/d...now put a 5.11+ climber on that climb and see what happens...he/she will get their ass kick..take them to Funk Rock and put him/her on the infidel 11d and it would be a different story.

If you climb at Funk Rock and Sky Bridge, the ratings will feel similar to the ratings at the New and that's because those cliffs are not very overhanging.