Route Development Recognition

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Should the route developer's name be in the route description?

You may select 1 option

34
69%
15
31%
 
Total votes: 49
 

the lurkist
Posts: 2240
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

I'll weigh in b/c I have been known for bolting routes that are too hard for me then giving them away (in almost all cases, to Dave Hume).
I personally don't care if my name is mentioned for routes that I bolted and didn't do the FA on. I think those individual routes are known well enough and the history behind it is common knowledge.
That said, the person who bolts the line has the initiative, the vision and the time and money input without which the route would never exist.
Case in point the Legend- This is not the most obvious line. It had been looked at by three other developers (Porter, Doug Reed, who actually started bolting it then backed off) and Dave Hume. All three thought the route was undoable. I saw it and saw the line and bolted it. Dave did the FA after I had tried ti for a year (my personal cut off time).
So who should get the credit?
Another example- There is a line that has not been bolted at the Dark Side. It is probably 5.14. It is stunningly beautiful and elegant in its aesthetic. I have pointed it out to many young gys who would be capable of doing it and are capable of bolting it , encouraging them to do it. I even would put int he anchors and hang a rope on it for them and let them use my kit. Any takers? Not yet. Why? I think folks would like to wait for some one else to do the work.
You can bet that no sooner that I put gear in it, everyone of these young guys will be lining up asking me whne it will be open.
So, who should get the credit for bring routes into existance for all to enjoy? A guy who is easily capable of sending it and it is just another send for him, or the person with the vision.
Historically , the recognition fo the FA is grounded in mountaineering whre the top was the objective. The game has changed so much since that time that I don't think the tradition of FA translates very well.
Hugh
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
maine
Posts: 343
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 2:16 am

Post by maine »

Well said, Hugh and BTW HI to you Di and Amelia!
Hope all is well in your neck of the woods.

Charmagne
allah
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 4:10 am

Post by allah »

Hugh, I would bolt that line you are talking about, but personally, I do not think it goes, ive looked at it a lot and even if you did equip it I wouldnt get on it till someone else did or untill I was capable of climbing 5.15 (which will never happen) .
JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

Lurkist, You have got to help me out with this "line" thing you keep referring to. Do you mean the "line" of least resistance? Or maybe the "line" of bolts, followed by a "line" of chalk?

Historically, the recognition of the "line" is grounded in mountaineering where the Line was visable. The Line has changed so much since that time that I don't think the tradition of the Line translates very well.

S.C.I.N.
Lateralus
Posts: 937
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 10:14 pm

Post by Lateralus »

I think it translates pretty well, I've been on some mountaineering routes that sure don't remind me of anything remotely of a "line" as in straight line. However, the best mountaineering and sport routes I've done always were very distinct lines, paths, routes barely linking climbable features together.
"Good things take time, impossible things take a little longer"
Percy Gerutty
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