Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2004 3:24 pm
I'll weigh in b/c I have been known for bolting routes that are too hard for me then giving them away (in almost all cases, to Dave Hume).
I personally don't care if my name is mentioned for routes that I bolted and didn't do the FA on. I think those individual routes are known well enough and the history behind it is common knowledge.
That said, the person who bolts the line has the initiative, the vision and the time and money input without which the route would never exist.
Case in point the Legend- This is not the most obvious line. It had been looked at by three other developers (Porter, Doug Reed, who actually started bolting it then backed off) and Dave Hume. All three thought the route was undoable. I saw it and saw the line and bolted it. Dave did the FA after I had tried ti for a year (my personal cut off time).
So who should get the credit?
Another example- There is a line that has not been bolted at the Dark Side. It is probably 5.14. It is stunningly beautiful and elegant in its aesthetic. I have pointed it out to many young gys who would be capable of doing it and are capable of bolting it , encouraging them to do it. I even would put int he anchors and hang a rope on it for them and let them use my kit. Any takers? Not yet. Why? I think folks would like to wait for some one else to do the work.
You can bet that no sooner that I put gear in it, everyone of these young guys will be lining up asking me whne it will be open.
So, who should get the credit for bring routes into existance for all to enjoy? A guy who is easily capable of sending it and it is just another send for him, or the person with the vision.
Historically , the recognition fo the FA is grounded in mountaineering whre the top was the objective. The game has changed so much since that time that I don't think the tradition of FA translates very well.
Hugh
I personally don't care if my name is mentioned for routes that I bolted and didn't do the FA on. I think those individual routes are known well enough and the history behind it is common knowledge.
That said, the person who bolts the line has the initiative, the vision and the time and money input without which the route would never exist.
Case in point the Legend- This is not the most obvious line. It had been looked at by three other developers (Porter, Doug Reed, who actually started bolting it then backed off) and Dave Hume. All three thought the route was undoable. I saw it and saw the line and bolted it. Dave did the FA after I had tried ti for a year (my personal cut off time).
So who should get the credit?
Another example- There is a line that has not been bolted at the Dark Side. It is probably 5.14. It is stunningly beautiful and elegant in its aesthetic. I have pointed it out to many young gys who would be capable of doing it and are capable of bolting it , encouraging them to do it. I even would put int he anchors and hang a rope on it for them and let them use my kit. Any takers? Not yet. Why? I think folks would like to wait for some one else to do the work.
You can bet that no sooner that I put gear in it, everyone of these young guys will be lining up asking me whne it will be open.
So, who should get the credit for bring routes into existance for all to enjoy? A guy who is easily capable of sending it and it is just another send for him, or the person with the vision.
Historically , the recognition fo the FA is grounded in mountaineering whre the top was the objective. The game has changed so much since that time that I don't think the tradition of FA translates very well.
Hugh