RRC Archives

ynot wrote:I don't agree, M Medic. Maybe beginners should have to invest some dough and learn from a seasoned climber. Then It wouldnt be so crowded with backclipping gumbies . Buying a rack just shows that you are commited to climbing. None of that weekend sport climbing tourist BS.like annoying dogs,litter,and route hogging.
It has crossed lots of bolters minds to put up a bunch of easy lines,someone did and thats exactly what you find every weekend there.

ooOOOOooooh! Aren't we special?

You've got a point, and the whole horde-o-gumbies thing annoys me too. But did you ever think that some of those beginners leading 5.6 sport might be having more fun than you had that day?

If anything, there is a need for a lot more 5.6 to 5.8 sport routes. The safest thing is for beginner leaders to lead stuff way below their limit so they can concentrate on things like not back-clipping, rather than worrying about some hard, complicated sequence where they end up too pumped to clip?

There are no hard complicated sequences on a 5.6 trad route.
There are way more easy sport routes than when most of us started climbing.

But did you ever think that some of those beginners leading 5.6 sport might be having more fun than you had that day?

You do not know the folly of your words.

As I'm too lazy to go all the way back there and look for myself, only to find it not bolted, what's the current status of Eureka? Bolts or no bolts?

There are no bolts on Eureka.

There are three bolts on Eureka.

I used one of the bolts from Eureka to pierce my naval.

I am using the others as passive gear on this sick hard FA I'm working.

I think you missed one Yas.
I was up there Sunday and there was one bolt on U-reeka.

Sweet-- I noticed I was having to run it out a little at the top of my proj. I'll be back next weekend to snag that last bolt so that I can safely protect the exit moves (of my proj). I'm not telling you where the crack is though. So don't ask.