The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

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Pumpkin
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by Pumpkin »

camhead wrote:
-start sandbagging route grades more

- Similarly, I guarantee that if Ray were to, say, downgrade Snooker to 12c/d, numbers of climbers on it would significantly go down, but those climbers would just go clog up Spank, or the Force.

I like this idea. Downgrade everything 10d and under by 1 letter grade and everything 11a and up by 2 letter grades!
Wolf
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by Wolf »

Artsay wrote:It's 100% the problem. If Miguel's increased camping to $8/night, much of the problems we're seeing would go away.
Folks come here for weeks and even months at a time. They "live" at Miguel's instead of go on climbing trips.

Camping is $8/night in Maple Canyon (without water) and there are limited spots. If folks don't have camping figured out, they don't go.
Ever boulder at Hueco Tanks? It's such a hastle to plan and schedule within all the limitations that folks plan annual trips elsewhere.

Look at the cars at Miguel's and do the math.
If it wasn't $2/night, it wouldn't be as crowded (and IMO if the prices were increased, Miguel's would make more money and would see more paying customers instead of folks living in their cars eating their own food).

A $30 parking pass pays for a year of camping in the Daniel Boone National Forest. And last time I was at Maple, people with decent 4WD vehicles simply drove up the mountain past the campground and climbing, and then camped for free with a water source. As for hueco, I'd rather the Red not be a giant pain in the ass to visit.

Also, if you want to take more than 1 shower a week or use the internet, camping at Lago linda's is actually cheaper than miguel's, so you'll have to get Linda to raiser her prices as well. Oh, and Land of the Arches too.
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Corona
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by Corona »

Media attention, mostly. Locals could get real unfriendly-like? Just checked Smith, Rifle, Maple, and Lander--nobody's there. Everybody...EVERYBODY has gone to the Red this October, except for a few token roadtripping Euros. Don't know about you guys, but I'm going to the New. ;)

Re: $2/night dirtbag climber problem. Seriously? Have you spent even one season here? That accounts for significantly less than 20 climbers per season. Anyway, free camping abounds for real dirtbags.
mssmith
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by mssmith »

Can anyone attest to whether cash box and online donations to RRGCC and Muir valley significantly increase during October? If so then aren't crowds a good thing? More people -> more money -> more land to climb on? I'm sure that owners of the lesser publicized businesses i.e. LOA, rockhouse, koops, aren't complaining about crowds.
dustonian
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by dustonian »

Nah, they're probably still complaining at Koop's ;)
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Rotarypwr345704
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by Rotarypwr345704 »

Artsay wrote:$2/night camping is the problem. This is breeding the infestation of dirtbag climbers whom are the primary issue.
I'm afraid I don't agree with you on this one, Michelle. I mean do you ever camp at Miggies? (I ask because I don't know, but I'm assuming you don't) 90% of the time when I come to the Gorge, it is more convienent for me to camp than not. I think it's really easy to say this-or-that needs to change when it doesn't affect you in the slightest. Typically, the best course of action is what can I do better? Even for those of us who feel like they do a lot. I would almost guarantee that every single one of us could be better and give more. I think it is this kind of thinking we have to adopt as a community.
I fell for the everyone-shut-up-and-ill-donate-money scheme. -Ray Ellington, guidebook gawd

My name is Sam Douglass and I love to pose for photo shoots holding on to a jug with only one hand (and no feet!) with my best friend Ian.
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Artsay
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by Artsay »

Just my opinion and you know what they say about assholes and opinions....we all have one! :-)

When I was young *sigh*....
Some can't possibly believe this but the old crusties were all dirtbaggers at one time. Tis true...
And having been one I know exactly what it's like and why I climbed at certain places. Being a UGA college grad, the Red and the New were top pics because camping was easy and cheap. Other places like T-Wall, with limited sites and frequent break-ins, were always a pain and would get bumped down on the weekend warrior list as result. Same with Mt. Yonah, we used to be able to camp there so easilty but then it all changed and we didn't go there anymore. But of course, Mt. Yonah is no Red River Gorge...

But in general...yea, I think it does make a difference that camping is cheap and Miguel's is so awesome. We can't change Miguel's being so awesome and don't want to but I do think raising the price of camping will help make people think twice about going to the Red for every trip.
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
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climb2core
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by climb2core »

Artsay wrote:Just my opinion and you know what they say about assholes and opinions....we all have one! :-)

When I was young *sigh*....
Some can't possibly believe this but the old crusties were all dirtbaggers at one time. Tis true...
And having been one I know exactly what it's like and why I climbed at certain places. Being a UGA college grad, the Red and the New were top pics because camping was easy and cheap. Other places like T-Wall, with limited sites and frequent break-ins, were always a pain and would get bumped down on the weekend warrior list as result. Same with Mt. Yonah, we used to be able to camp there so easilty but then it all changed and we didn't go there anymore. But of course, Mt. Yonah is no Red River Gorge...

But in general...yea, I think it does make a difference that camping is cheap and Miguel's is so awesome. We can't change Miguel's being so awesome and don't want to but I do think raising the price of camping will help make people think twice about going to the Red for every trip.
Saying that Miguel is a significant cause of crowding at the Red is like saying that one drop of water filled the bucket. It is just one factor of hundreds that could be mentioned...
-Media
-Proximity to population
-Climate
-Huge amount of quality moderate and advanced rock to climb on
-Ease of Approach
-Fun steep climbing
-Your hubbies guidebook ;)

The list goes on ad nauseum.... why even mention Miguels as a cause? You can't change it and Miguels has always been a huge resource for climbers in the Red.
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Artsay
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by Artsay »

Andrew wrote:The crowds are not going to go away, so what do we do as a community? I am not talking about just fixed draws, nor am I blaming any one person or group of people, but how do we as a climbing community safely manage the large amount of people. We have more parking, camping, and businesses catering to climbers than ever. How do we manage all of this?
I thought I was answering Andrew's question on things we can change to manage the surge in visitors?
I'll edit my post to say it's not 100% of the problem, I was wrong in saying that but I do think it's a significant factor.
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
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clif
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Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Post by clif »

i'm delighted by the number of voices that have been heard the last few days and believe that has made not only any consensus stronger, but more capable in addressing other issues.

i sense a lot of potential if the attention is properly leveraged. i definitely hope that every member of this crowd antes at least 20 dollars (a year) and strong opinions on where it goes (what land?).
training is for people who care, i have a job.
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