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Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 6:56 pm
by pigsteak
my slingshot explanation is way better than nerd sceince

Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 7:32 pm
by climb2core
Pigsteak, how is the shoulder? You climbing yet? (i know totally off topic, but to lazy to care)

Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 7:37 pm
by pigsteak
thx for asking .....out of PT...can actually do a few pullups and pushups....been outside two times..nothing to write home about. but gonna start bolting again tomorrow, so watch out

Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 7:49 pm
by climb2core
Nice, good to hear... more or your routes are (almost) never a bad thing. ;)

Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 7:51 pm
by pigsteak
'almost'????? almost?????

I am hurt that someone would think I have bolted choss....I was told that was Tackett's realm exclusively.

Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:14 pm
by Brentucky
pigsteak wrote:my slingshot explanation is way better than nerd sceince
I remember once you put the slingshot in full effect the first time you ever belayed me on Oompa. You probably don't remember, but DAMN that hurt my ankles, and I swore off climbing with people who significantly outweighed me for a while (no offense, Mr. Dew).

Of course the last outing we had as I was climbing a terribly sandbagged pigsteak route with a scary bolt placement (no offense), you gave me a perfectly soft catch, so much so that I got enough courage to actually try to stick the move again. With Oompa in the back of my mind you can probably understand now why I was straining so hard to make that clip, chuffer.

Oh, and if pigsteak actually did to a few real pull-ups then look out because he will soon be in the best shape of his life! :wink:

Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:50 pm
by Saxman
You fell on Oompa?

Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:52 pm
by climb2core
pigsteak wrote:'almost'????? almost?????

I am hurt that someone would think I have bolted choss....I was told that was Tackett's realm exclusively.
MabyE aLL yOur lines are sWeet, but You tELL me...OWn it! ;)

Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:08 pm
by Rollo
JR is the best belayer i know. although his style seems pretty different than mine it works really well.

it comes down to experience for sure... i'm still a little scared of falling because of all the bone jarring catches my early partners and i gave each other when starting out.

it's pretty simple to me though, know the situation.

Re: Lead belay question

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:19 pm
by Brentucky
Saxman wrote:You fell on Oompa?
You didn't? Good job. I didn't just fall once, I fell a bunch. I remember I walked right past it at first as I was looking for the "5.10a warmup." I was not too happy when I was informed that was it, as it was even more intimidating-looking than AWOL!!!