Page 6 of 10
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:02 pm
by shuffleboardfan
pkananen wrote:What? Neither Roadside nor Diamond in the Crack are multipitch. I'd just count the first "pitch" of Diamond as part of the approach. I'd say Roadside is spot on rating-wise, I could maybe see Diamond in the Crack being a number grade harder. But most any Day route could be a number grade harder.
I'm not rich therefore I don't have that big of a rack...so for me and most people in my situation RA is a 2 pitch climb. Also Diamond lists 2 pitches in the guide and I imagine at least 95% of people climb it in 2. I've been climbing for a while now and I've always understood "multi" to mean "more than one". Perhaps I'm wrong on this one, or maybe I'm just not enough of an ego-stroking, elitist climber to understand the meaning of simple climbing terms.
Guess I should have known better than to post from the viewpoint of a "mortal" climber.
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:11 pm
by bcombs
shuffleboardfan wrote:I'm not rich therefore I don't have that big of a rack...so for me and most people in my situation RA is a 2 pitch climb.
I hear ya, bro. I only have two cams and one stopper. I did RA in an 18 pitch all day push. Epic.
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:23 pm
by tbwilsonky
shuffleboardfan wrote: Guess I should have known better than to post from the viewpoint of a "mortal" climber.
yes you should have. doesn't the FAQ for this site recommend as much?
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:24 pm
by ReachHigh
I've always felt that the grade for roadside attraction was spot on.
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:30 pm
by shuffleboardfan
AMENDED POST...here's what I meant to say earlier.
It's funny that this question should come up 'cause me and Sharma were talking about the same thing when we were pulling at the 'lode last weekend.
He thought that "Jesus Wept" and "Veruca Salt" were the most sandbagged. I was like nah man those are soft, mindless, gumby, jug hauls. Just like everything else in the Red.
Then I ran 6 laps on Team Wilson, before sending 3 new projects (my dog belayed me). I thought they we're all in the 5.3-5.4 range but Sharm tried to follow them and couldn't get past the 3rd clip on either of them. He's such a wuss.
PS. I once climbed the Nose nude, in the dark, with no headlamp, in hiking boots, with my dog on my back, in one pitch. Anyone who hasn't done that, doesn't deserve to call their sorry self, a climber. They should all realize they're stupid and should stop finding climbing enjoyable altogether.
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:38 pm
by bottboberts
One-Fall wrote:11b - Tecumseh's Curse
12a - The Juice
havent tried the juice but Tecumseh's curse felt HARD
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:39 pm
by shuffleboardfan
bcombs wrote:shuffleboardfan wrote:I'm not rich therefore I don't have that big of a rack...so for me and most people in my situation RA is a 2 pitch climb.
I hear ya, bro. I only have two cams and one stopper. I did RA in an 18 pitch all day push. Epic.
Nice. Assuming at least one piece placed between pitches, that wouldn't have left much for building an anchor with. You sir are harcore.
PS My rack consists of 2 homemade chocks made of knotted webbing, 2 small ball-nuts, a #5 big bro, and a pack of really sticky chewing gum.
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:44 pm
by pkananen
shuffleboardfan wrote:
I'm not rich therefore I don't have that big of a rack...so for me and most people in my situation RA is a 2 pitch climb. Also Diamond lists 2 pitches in the guide and I imagine at least 95% of people climb it in 2. I've been climbing for a while now and I've always understood "multi" to mean "more than one". Perhaps I'm wrong on this one, or maybe I'm just not enough of an ego-stroking, elitist climber to understand the meaning of simple climbing terms.
Guess I should have known better than to post from the viewpoint of a "mortal" climber.
Well, I agree one should probably rope up for the first pitch of Diamond, but the climbing sucks so bad I'd prefer just to not count it as part of the route.
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:47 pm
by tbwilsonky
shuffleboardfan wrote:AMENDED POST...here's what I meant to say earlier.
It's funny that this question should come up 'cause me and Sharma were talking about the same thing when we were pulling at the 'lode last weekend.
He thought that "Jesus Wept" and "Veruca Salt" were the most sandbagged. I was like nah man those are soft, mindless, gumby, jug hauls. Just like everything else in the Red.
Then I ran 6 laps on Team Wilson, before sending 3 new projects (my dog belayed me). I thought they we're all in the 5.3-5.4 range but Sharm tried to follow them and couldn't get past the 3rd clip on either of them. He's such a wuss.
PS. I once climbed the Nose nude, in the dark, with no headlamp, in hiking boots, with my dog on my back, in one pitch. Anyone who hasn't done that, doesn't deserve to call their sorry self, a climber. They should all realize they're stupid and should stop finding climbing enjoyable altogether.
way 2 keep it realz, yo.
Re: Hardest sport route for the grade
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:56 pm
by Andrew
Now that you mention it, Veruca Salt did feel really hard.