RRC Archives

re: training crimps in general. this is an old argument with - as far as i can tell - two common positions. i'm noting them here for interweb redundancy:

1) train how you climb: if you full crimp outside then you should train those hand positions to increase specific strength and prevent heinous injuries come showtime.
2) training should be safe: train open-hand strength inside. because while it doesn't transfer 100% to full crimp strength, it does prevent the oh-so-unfortunate indoor pulley tear.

i choose 1 unless my pulley is torn.

t

chriss wrote:

pigsteak wrote:quick question..when you are doing the three finger hangs, do you curl your other finger under or try to straighten it out of the way? neither way feels comfortable.

I curl the other finger. Should feel natural, similar to using a three finger hold outside.

Another question, when you are using holds 3 and 4 on the moon board how much do you train in the full crimp position vs open hand?

Pigsteak, I curl it under.

Chris, I never go to a full crimp on 3 and 4. Half crimp on those and open handed on all of the others.

SCIN wrote:

chriss wrote:

pigsteak wrote:quick question..when you are doing the three finger hangs, do you curl your other finger under or try to straighten it out of the way? neither way feels comfortable.

I curl the other finger. Should feel natural, similar to using a three finger hold outside.

Another question, when you are using holds 3 and 4 on the moon board how much do you train in the full crimp position vs open hand?

Pigsteak, I curl it under.

Chris, I never go to a full crimp on 3 and 4. Half crimp on those and open handed on all of the others.

I'm the same.

I'll show my ignorance..not sure I know what a half crimp is...if you do not put your thumb over top, is that a half crimp? Or is it more the bends in the joints? I just hang on the best I can....

I think half crimping is between open handed and fully closed. So the fingers are bent somewhat but you aren't fully locked down on the hold.

if the second knuckle (PIP joint) is above the last knuckle (DIP joint) then it would be a full crimp and usually this would cause full extension or hyperextension at the last joint, if it is even with or slightly below then it is a half crimp or all the way down just an open handed grip, at least that is the way I look at it

I have a new training plan I'd like to share, and put SCIN to the challenge. man on man, next Saturday, we'll see who the real beast is.
1- Drink 20 oz. Mt. Dew in under 60 seconds
2-Rest 2 minutes with Krispy Creme donuts
3-Drink 40 OZ.Code Red Dew with ONE HAND. (no crimping) no time limit
4- Consume Number three from McD's from breakfast menu before 10:30 AM...
5-Drive to Red.
6-Send your choice of 5.10's

Now, that my friend, is how a real man trains.

I may be blind or just dumb, but I don't see anywhere on the moon board where the holds are numbered. I assume the pockets are 1and 2, but I wanted to make sure on the rest.

BenjiB wrote:I may be blind or just dumb, but I don't see anywhere on the moon board where the holds are numbered. I assume the pockets are 1and 2, but I wanted to make sure on the rest.

Not dumb Benji, just lazy like me..and I have been told that is not a good combo if planning on using the Moon board.