RRC Archives

i just saw the picture of the removed bolts from 'Glory Be' and knowing it's way out at the end of the cliff, does that mean the rebolting is finished? thanks Jeff, whoeveryouare.

Yes clif, it is finished, climb on.

Clif, just for clarification: Glory Be is finished. There are still a handful of sport routes to be redone before the entire cliff is finished.

A million thanks, Jeff (& Lee)... You guys are rock gods. I think this sets the new standard for rebolting in the Red: SS glue-ins only! It kills me to see old classics rebolted with zinc-plated carbon steel, multiple holes and old bolts all around each other in a little nest of pointless short-lived hardware. Soon at least there won't be enough flat rock for a hanger left, & maybe the next crew will get the idea.

Thanks again for doing all this hard work and for doing it the right way!! Kick ass... I hope to get started at other crags in need soon.

All Jeff. He does have support from his friends, but it really is all him.

jeff, have you had any of those rusty old bolts tested? while I have seen pictures and some of them look bad, I am wonder how their structural integrity has held up...how old were the bolts taken off of Glory Be? 15 years or so? maybe Rick would test some stuff for us...

Good idea. I'll start saving them instead of throwing them away. Glory was put up in 93, so 18 years.

How would you test holding strength in a bolt that's already been removed? Shear strength would be interesting enough, but I think the real loss in rusted expansion bolts comes in holding to the rock as the sleeve deteriorates.