Twinkie & Ro questions?

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:00 pm

Oops I messed up the quote. He said you can be more likely to have an injury. Like the old "beginners should pace themselves instead of trying to climb harder grades then what they should be" theorem. You might go out and climb Critters on a Cliff and think you are a 5.11 climber, get in to the gym and climb an 11 with back to back 11 moves and end up pulling something.

I define a crimp as a hold that just the pads on the end of my fingers sit on. There are lots of types of crimps though, some where just the very tips of your fingers sit on, which I guess would be an openhanded crimp. Some crimps are so small you can only use your finger nails to use them. I saw a nasty picture of some rock climbers shredded fingernails once; they were all cracked up (some were even missing) from climbing tiny crimps his whole life. So I guess the word crimp can still be kind of vague, and that's why the term open handed crimp showed up?

Post by **moonbeam** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:10 pm

You make my eyes bleed.

Post by **rhunt** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:55 pm

Instead of "I. Am. Dumb."

I propose, "A book I read said..."

Post by **powen01** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:58 pm

What gym is it dude? I want to crush like you! I even have my own supply of twine!

Post by **One-Fall** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:59 pm

redpoint,

We have met at the gym. I admire your dedication to go after two awesome climbs like twinkie and ro. Both are fantastic. Get on them, have fun and be safe. But if you are wanting to send them, you should really follow most everyone's advice and build a stronger/wider base. When I project, I rarely get anything a letter grade above what I have already done (that's just me).
Also, give yourself props for sending an 11 in Rob's gym. I climbed there for 2 years and never sent one and I can do 11s outside. Good luck man, and if you become a climbing beast, DONT BECOME A SPRAYLORD!

Post by **tutugirl** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:11 pm

How old are you???

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:07 pm

powen01 wrote:Redpoint, what gym do you go to? I would love to take a shot at your 11. I just sent my first gym 5.9+ last week. Give me the scoop, man. I'm ready to push these grades even higher.

Sorry, you were talking about sending 9+'s and so I figured you were just screwing with me. It was at Rocksport, but the route didn't see much traffic at all(which is odd because normally the 11's do), so it wasn't up for too long and now it's gone.

One-Fall wrote:redpoint,

We have met at the gym. I admire your dedication to go after two awesome climbs like twinkie and ro. Both are fantastic. Get on them, have fun and be safe. But if you are wanting to send them, you should really follow most everyone's advice and build a stronger/wider base. When I project, I rarely get anything a letter grade above what I have already done (that's just me).
Also, give yourself props for sending an 11 in Rob's gym. I climbed there for 2 years and never sent one and I can do 11s outside. Good luck man, and if you become a climbing beast, DONT BECOME A SPRAYLORD!

I didn't plan on becoming a spraylord, even if I did send twinkie nobody on here would believe me anyhow, so why even bother spraying about it.

Here is why my goal is so high:

I walked past twinkie and I was inspired. I also liked the fact that it had permadraws on it, no need for bailbiners if I can't finish it. Most of the falls don't get any cleaner. And last but not least, I don't think there is a single move on it that I can't do, so why not go after it.

The only thing holding me back is endurance, but I plan on training and doing 30 minute laps around the island at Rocksport again. No wonder that place makes me feel so tired on my rest days; endurance training really wears you out, but not as much as strength-endurance training, which I have been doing a lot of lately. http://www.indoorclimbing.com/trainingplans.html

tutugirl wrote:How old are you???

Who me? I'm 28, but my internet personality would make you think otherwise since I like messing with people in forums. I guess I do it because normally I am really bad at holding a strait face. Just kidding I'm totally honest on here, despite my troll like appearance. I will admit that I try to add some shock value to my posts though. I normally don't like making long posts unless they are going to entertain people, and all of my posts are long so almost all of my posts on here have my weirdest thoughts in them. This topic has pretty much been the only exception since I actually wanted peoples honest thoughts about some nice hard routes.

Post by **Andrew** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:47 pm

You don't need 30 minutes of endurance to do Twinkie. Try harder moves for less time.

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:57 pm

Well Rob always says some of the best training you can do at rocksport is to do 30 minute laps on the island, and so that was one of the ways I trained. What you are saying makes more sense though, to try and replicate the route right?

I also used to like running laps in the boulder cave, but I normally couldn't even do one. What are you thinking, traversing back and forth in the boulder cave for what like 15 minutes?

Post by KD » Sat Oct 31, 2009 12:02 am

I agree with mr point! I have recently taken a year off because of old fart elbow tendons and haven't climbed anything in that time to speak of. I usually was a pretty fair 10 climber but was thinking of projecting skeletor upon my return because 14's are just four numbers more than ten. Do you think i am hoping for too much?

also i am taking up sailing and have a small day sailer - i was thinking about sailing it to alaska sometime and then circumnavigating the globe with it. I think that that isnt too much of a jump from the ohio river or patoka lake because its just a little bit more water and i can swim.