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Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 7:29 pm
by lena_chita
camhead wrote:
Naw, Dogleg is like 11a if you're short. You can do hand-foot matches in those horizontals, bring your hips in, and statically reach for the next hold. Way casual. You should totally get on it.
.11a-- That would make it even easier than Amarillo! Piece of cake. But why do I want to throw rocks at you?
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 2:47 pm
by JB
spray alert:
yesterday, in a random encounter at the big bend boulders in moab, tankazz and I both sent V0 after multiple tries. cruuuuuuuuuuuushed!!
jb
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 10:27 pm
by pigsteak
nicely done both of you!!!
I got on my proj saturday morning, and I know it is at my limit, because the air felt 100% wet and the slopers unmanageable. instead of losing skin, I chose to bail...and then the sun came out. gonna try it again sunday.
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 10:42 pm
by Jeff
Ah, I sent my project today!
First go, feeling good, strong, and on. Foothold breaks.
Second go, nailed it.
Tough onsight. 11c possibly b with moves wired.
"October Sky"
Now I have nothing to obsess over.
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 10:46 pm
by pigsteak
excellent jeff..I remember wacthing you on that on TR before you bolted it. it looked super tricky then for the angle.
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:57 am
by woman
Andrew wrote:Ro is easier if you are short, just like 98% of routes at the red.
Not so. It's easier if you are not a tall freak (Andrew) or a midget (me).
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:40 am
by SCIN
Linked up a large section of my project this afternoon after almost giving up on it because I sucked on it earlier in the day. Turns out it was just the humidity early on which broke later in the day so I'm glad I got back on it.
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:17 pm
by bcombs
Back on topic...
I think I'm going to project Resurrection as a first 12c. I doubt too many would say it is soft for the grade.
On Friday a hold broke above the 2nd. Saturday I learned the new Buster beta, which is a burly throw to a hold out left, and Artsay's heel hook beta (thanks!). I don't know which one will suit me better.
This route will take a new level of fitness that I don't currently have. After a pretty tough boulder problem down low, you have a few bolts of decently pumpy sequential climbing. The last two bolts worth is standard Undertow crimping.
Game on.