Page 6 of 11
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 6:41 pm
by rustyvasectomy
krampus wrote:there goes the neighborhood is damn good but I bet if "game boy" wasn't a top out it would be everyones favorite. It has all 5 star criteria and way more exciting than spirit fingers or neighborhood. Its long, sustained, and several types of movement, with good 11c type resting jugs along the way.
I just left a biner on the last bolt and lowered off. But I disagree about game boy being 5 star. Routes at the red, like most of anticlimber's orifices, only get better with age and travel. So, if a route has not been done many many many times, then it still has too much choss on it and does not have five star status.
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 7:03 pm
by krampus
rustyvasectomy wrote:krampus wrote:there goes the neighborhood is damn good but I bet if "game boy" wasn't a top out it would be everyones favorite. It has all 5 star criteria and way more exciting than spirit fingers or neighborhood. Its long, sustained, and several types of movement, with good 11c type resting jugs along the way.
I just left a biner on the last bolt and lowered off. But I disagree about game boy being 5 star. Routes at the red, like most of anticlimber's orifices, only get better with age and travel. So, if a route has not been done many many many times, then it still has too much choss on it and does not have five star status.
its not the routs fault that people like to follow the heard and have forgotten about the pre-PMRP/Muir red.
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 7:36 pm
by rustyvasectomy
krampus wrote:its not the routs fault that people like to follow the heard and have forgotten about the pre-PMRP/Muir red.
ahh, the ever elusive traddie region of the gorge. Iv heard rumors about this place, tucked away somewhere between the southern region, Muir and torrent falls. Legend goes that it is deep in the traddie region that lie some of the most famous 5.9 cracks that traddies vehemently spray about! Of course, I can't dream about entering the territory because the native "I-only-climb-on-static-gear-brah-bro-traddie" is very protective of its domain...
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 8:22 pm
by gripster
who here think rusty would flail and whine like a baby on one of these 5.9 cracks he is always going on about? hey rusty, have you ever even led a trad route? maybe you should try it sometime. you might find it more fun and difficult than you think.
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 8:32 pm
by rustyvasectomy
hey, Lance Armstrong, why you always riding your bike places and battling cancer? Why don't you give sitting around and smoking crack a try? It might be more fun than you think...
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 8:36 pm
by gripster
hmmm, i am not sure if that analogy is even close to relevant but ok. I still think you would flail and whine like a baby.
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 8:43 pm
by Saxman
rustyvasectomy wrote:I just left a biner on the last bolt and lowered off.
Yet a properly tied bowline is ridiculously unsafe.
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 9:08 pm
by Wes
gripster wrote:I still think you would flail and whine like a baby.
Um, no, probably not. But, I am sure you would whine like a baby on his warmups, that is if you could get past the first bolt. Maybe you should challenge him to a climb off, you know, like for money and stuff.
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 9:10 pm
by Wes
krampus wrote:rustyvasectomy wrote:krampus wrote:there goes the neighborhood is damn good but I bet if "game boy" wasn't a top out it would be everyones favorite. It has all 5 star criteria and way more exciting than spirit fingers or neighborhood. Its long, sustained, and several types of movement, with good 11c type resting jugs along the way.
I just left a biner on the last bolt and lowered off. But I disagree about game boy being 5 star. Routes at the red, like most of anticlimber's orifices, only get better with age and travel. So, if a route has not been done many many many times, then it still has too much choss on it and does not have five star status.
its not the routs fault that people like to follow the heard and have forgotten about the pre-PMRP/Muir red.
Actually, it never really got done all that much, "back in the day and shit" either. It is dumb that it tops out, but the top out the sport route was a phase there for a while.
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 9:19 pm
by rustyvasectomy
Wes wrote:gripster wrote:I still think you would flail and whine like a baby.
Um, no, probably not. But, I am sure you would whine like a baby on his warmups, that is if you could get past the first bolt. Maybe you should challenge him to a climb off, you know, like for money and stuff.
Eh, I may not be a good rock climber, but if its a rap battle or a juggling contest, your on gripster!!