RRC Archives

Really? There are many face climbs in the Red that can be protected with gear? If that's true, and I'll trust you on that, you've come to exactly the wrong conclusion. Any face climbs that can be gear protected should never have been bolted in the first place.

Well I've noticed that. Maybe I should be more specific. Would anyone specifically bolt let's say a splitter crack?

But the idea of placing gear on a face climb seems pretty cool. Except I don't want to buy all that gear...

Believe me, the face pitches that I've "protected with gear" in the Red were pretty cheap leads.

gripster wrote:

rustyvasectomy wrote:After i mentioned that if he loostened his boots up a bit, he would perhaps raise the average carolina climber's coalition climbing grade to a whopping 5.4, he clumsily waddled away and stumbled into his honda pilot (its the new subaru).

so what is your vendetta against the CCC? is it because they purchased the tallest cliff in the continental united states east of the Mississippi? or is it because they don't want you bolting every line in the state?

at any rate, i have a feeling a NC 5.4 would be a real ego smacker for you

Ha! the thing about north carolina trad is that its not sustained at all. If you can boulder v-5, you pretty much have a skill set to do any n.c. trad line 5.11 and easier. They spray about their "trad ethic" but its all talk. Maybe its time yall unzipped your vaginas and let your balls hang out!

I was at Tower yesterday to do Africa. There was a dude on top rope already on the route when we reached it. He was struggling from the butt up. I mean hanging , struggle , hanging, struggle. His girl " friend" was belaying and put the route up for him. When he got down he proceded to say he used the face as much as possible, because he did not know how to jamb. After words he was headed to do send Twinkie @ Phantasia. He says he can smoke twinkie, but barely made it up Africa, go figure! Trad rules! .12 sport= .9 trad

That dude was me and I put it up on lead before you got there, hung around like a fool, but it got up. I was struggling, I wanted to learn how to handjam, and was told climbing Africa would really help with that(though i still used way too many crappy face holds). And i never say i could smoke twinkie, i said "i'm about to go make a fool of myself on twinkie"(exact words). But i can do about half of twinkie clean, and it was a much easier and more fun experience than trying africa was. I think it's just what you're used too, gym has me used to overhanging routes with big holds, so i'm just more comfortable on that.

also, not my girl friend, I met my partner on these forums(snowpuppy) a month or two ago when she was looking for someone to go climb with. She has been a climber for a while, took a break, and is just getting back into it.

Watch who you say derogatory things about on the internet, many people you see out climbing are also on here and part of the community, bashing people who were nothing but friendly to you can just make you look like an ass.

*edit* my grammar can be as bad as my handjamming

Good for you Jordan C. Learning how to handjam, climbing steep sport routes, having fun.

Hey elcap1974, did you end up sending Africa? It's only 5.9. Surely, your trad rules attitude means you crushed it. Did you crush some routes at Tower rock?

Here, I'm sprinkling some 'peace dust' on every ones head so we can be nicer to those who climb in the red.

this thread is like farting into a tupperware container and opening it up a week later, it may stink but it still makes you laugh...

I was not bashing you Jordan, just going with the flow of trad versus sport thread. I apologize for the improper verbage for your partner. But all the other verbage was witnessed. We were also friendly and would be happy to show you how to jamb anytime. Hope to see you again.