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Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:43 pm
by Wes
cliftongifford wrote:
But really, what gumby even considers climbing 5.9+R multi-pitch trad routes?
and why should I consider listening to someone that'd argue that a 5.10 sport route is just as hard to send as a 5.10 trad route? haha... you make me laugh!
Heh, to bad nevermore is a 5.7 trad route to a 5.9+ sport route, to another 5.8 trad route now. And there are plenty of "gumby's" climbing 5.whatever multi pitch routes - just stop by eldo on a weekend and watch the fun.

I know a lot of people think it's a cool route, and that is fine. But to me, unless you have done all the other good routes, this one is a waste of time. I did it once, and have no desire to do it again, esp. with the new hardware.

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:44 pm
by Wes
PS, where is the tradie sense of outrage over the new hardware that totally ruined the route? Make a statement and chop all the bolts and do it on gear, as should have been done to begin with! Then you can earn that R rating....

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:44 pm
by anticlmber
cliftongifford wrote:I guess so. I'm a sensative person.
But really, what gumby even considers climbing 5.9+R multi-pitch trad routes?
most of them.

they just don't know that's what they are getting on.

hell how many "gumbys" get hurt on 5.10 and under????

most of them.

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:18 pm
by pawilkes
i want to do this route but i kind of enjoy choss

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:36 pm
by RRO
[quote="Wes-in the Triple Crown thread"]Sack up and do the "real" triple crown in a day - Jungle Beat, Nevermore (choss, but OK climbing), and the Quest"[quote]

why the change of heart now wes ? heh

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:42 pm
by Wes
RRO wrote:
Wes-in the Triple Crown thread wrote:Sack up and do the "real" triple crown in a day - Jungle Beat, Nevermore (choss, but OK climbing), and the Quest"

why the change of heart now wes ? heh
Heh, I was just thinking that would be the only way I would do it again. But, for ethical reasons, I would have to skip the new bolts though. Or maybe just find a better route to put in the mix? Foxfire is even worse, so that one is out. Big country is a bit to easy. Cruisemaster a bit to hard, what is left?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:54 pm
by Old Gregg
I guess I woke a sleeping giant. It can't be as bad as you guys lead on. I have been on a fair amount of routes in the red that I didn't like but I can only think of a couple that i wish i hadn't done. There are people who have been climbing in the red for a lot of years on both sides of the fence, so I guess I will just have to find out for myself.

Wes if you're bored Saturday and want to take some photos let me know what you would charge.

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:29 pm
by TradMike
512OW wrote:
TradMike wrote:It is a dirty climb but a fun adventure. It looks like there could be some great sport routes on the top half off to the left. To bolt or not to be type climbing.
Adventure? Its a 180 foot climb within sight of the road, and even closer to houses. You walk down an old road to get off of it...

What about it, other than choss, constitutes adventure???
When you get stalked by a 7ft turkey, surprise a couple having sex in the woods, top out and enjoy a 6 pack, enjoy the vista for hours --- yes it was a very memorable adventure.

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:37 pm
by ynot
I see Danny sent Dead of Winter. Nice work man! That thing looks cooler than Nevermore.
Piggy, you been voted off the island. bring me your torch

Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 11:59 am
by ahab
Wes wrote:PS, where is the tradie sense of outrage over the new hardware that totally ruined the route? Make a statement and chop all the bolts and do it on gear, as should have been done to begin with! Then you can earn that R rating....
didn't it have old 1/4 inch studs on the runout part? so, were those replaced with new bolts/hangers? who sunk in the original bolts?