Sustainable route development

Post by **woodchuck008** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 9:44 pm

Being a has been traddie turned crap-ass sport climber, I always carry some cams to plug anywhere I feel I need another security point before some big moves.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 3:45 pm

pigsteak wrote:ah crap...I forgot Yasmeen was lurking to bust me. I hate that climb BTW...have been to the last bolt 50 zillion times, and for the life of me can't gumption up any crack technique to finish the durn thing.

Dive into it up to your elbows. I tried to avoid it at first, but it's the best way.

Post by **Wes** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 3:51 pm

Kneebars are the key! Not to bad to clip if you can sucker someone else into hanging the draws. I have to kinda come halfway out of the kneebar to hang the draw, and pulled something in my abs last time, so get someone else to hang them.

Yasmeen wrote:
pigsteak wrote:ah crap...I forgot Yasmeen was lurking to bust me. I hate that climb BTW...have been to the last bolt 50 zillion times, and for the life of me can't gumption up any crack technique to finish the durn thing.
Dive into it up to your elbows. I tried to avoid it at first, but it's the best way.