RRC Archives

'slingblade', yep. that's what slings are for. Gunks guy must have gone head over heals, as I've yet to lost a rack off my body in a fall. Tripping backwards over slab could do that I guess.

When transferring a sling from one climber to another it would be pretty easy to actually clip the sling in to the anchor in order to guarantee no fuck ups.

Also, I rack cams on the harness, but I still like having a gear sling for nuts so I can pick them up and eye up the size I want without having to unclip the nut from the sling at all. If your a little pumped and you pull a biner off your harness and start fiddling with the different sizes, you could drop the whole set of nuts by accident. Of course none of this would be of any relevance for the new hard trort climbers who have all the beta on all the gear placements already and have only racked what they need.

sprad is rad

The very first trad line I led at the gunks is a climb called Belly Roll. The reason for the name is a move you need to make in order to get past one section. You work your way up to a diagonal crack and roll over the edge in order to work your way up. Since this was my first lead there and not knowing what gear I would need, I packed everything I had. I must have had 4o lbs hanging from gear loops and a sling over my shoulder. I sounded like Festus from Gunsmoke going up this route with all the jingling I did. Once I got to the roll section, I had so much crap hanging off me, I could barely make the move. Once at the top, you wouldn't have been able to tell I had placed any gear since I still had about 38 lbs of it.

who's "festus" and what's a "gunsmoke?"

Shamis wrote:When transferring a sling from one climber to another it would be pretty easy to actually clip the sling in to the anchor in order to guarantee no fuck ups.

Also, I rack cams on the harness, but I still like having a gear sling for nuts so I can pick them up and eye up the size I want without having to unclip the nut from the sling at all. If your a little pumped and you pull a biner off your harness and start fiddling with the different sizes, you could drop the whole set of nuts by accident. Of course none of this would be of any relevance for the new hard trort climbers who have all the beta on all the gear placements already and have only racked what they need.

Its funny that people think that knowing the gear placements and treating it like a sport climb is a new thing. Far from it. Its actually just a smart thing... and a far better style than the "yo-yo" of yesteryear.
Not to mention, all those "hardcore sandbagged" routes in Jtree (that are actually soft) were toproped, and dialed, long before they were led. Who did that? Bachar. Kauk. Bridwell. Long. Bard. Jardine. Yaniro. Leavitt.

Every trad hero you can think of.... and thinking otherwise is just delusional.

Don't try and kid anyone KD, you're old enough to have watched the originals before they were on reruns or Nick at Nite!

Of course, that could have been during your "chemical" era.

512OW wrote:
Every trad hero you can think of.... and thinking otherwise is just delusional.

What about the 512OW of yesteryear? Surely he didn't do those things too?

pkananen wrote:

512OW wrote:
Every trad hero you can think of.... and thinking otherwise is just delusional.

What about the 512OW of yesteryear? Surely he didn't do those things too?

Oh hell yeah he did. Not doing it would be a bit retarded, unless you wanted to suck your whole life.

[/quote]
Every trad hero you can think of.... and thinking otherwise is just delusional.[/quote]

Sounds like somebody who's never climbed with Mark Wilford.