RRC Archives

der uber wrote:Yeah man Skunk Love had one super thin section that was a shut down

+1

5.11b's rule!

Grippy Green at dark side

Technique............is the wrong word here...relative to the (real) question, but is repeated...........year after year.

Every move requires a technique (crimp, gaston, knee bar, heel hook ect.) Actucally ..........most "moves"...........have a few techniques going on all at once.............

"left hand gaston, right hand under cling, high step left foot, right foot up high, then drop knee, then dead point once, then bounce to the next highest ........crimp."


Technique is a mode...........every climb is equally technical, but ...........some techniques seem redundant, and have lost...........repspect or consideration............but the steep climbs have an arsenal of techinque that if not used........ make the climbs ..........basically impossible..............bumps, toe hooks, knee scums,.................etc, and one of the most underarted, yet most EFFICIENT.... the back flag......looks like hot dogging to a few, but =

THE MOST EFICENT technique TO ACCOMPLISH THE SAID....hypotetical move.



Technique is what translates movement into efficientcy...........all climbs take technique for every single move...........


Technique also applies to breathing, resting, visualzing, etc. Try climbing out of the madness cave without shaking out (a technique) or any other of the other 20 techiques mentioned.............good luck........even campusing is a "technique'...ie......mode


What most people .............mean..............when they ask this question in this manner.......which is very common place.............is "what climb is" .....most balance intensive (samarui-ish), most.........friction intensive (super slab), finger jaming intensive (rock wars), hand jam intensive, ..........off width intensive (when doves fly).........balance intensive, power intensive (maybe lock off), endurance intensive (kneebar, relaxing ((you meean relaxing is a technic?..........Y),.............and yes "crimp"-ing" ( vs..........open hand, hand jam, etc). ........a specific technique which tends to work intensively a specific muscle or system of muscles.



So............I think the semantics of the question need to evlove.........to be specific to the scenerio, and/or multi-facitied=not over generalized.

The climb that seems most techinical to me is the climb that used 95 percent of the above named techniques, ......that without near perfect exacution of all the above techniques ......would have been impossible.

All climbs are equally technical ..........but from my experince (?) some are harder ..........which is why we have a grading system..........to generalize the technical difiiculty of the technical climb.

peace

miss u

blank canvas

Spoonman is right on.

Well said, Greg. Also, I think some routes that are classically "technical" can be done with no technique if you have enough strength. I also feel the reverse is true. Some technical routes have a requisite strength requirement to even attempt the technical move.

I haven't been on it, but Cruxifiction looked very thin and technical.

Beta-intensive maybe a better term, but Lee is right on also. You may be so balls strong that you don't need any technique, or sometimes I can't even do the technique because I am not strong enough.

I think that most people are just talking about routes that aren't "follow that line of crimps / pockets / jugs / edges / etc tic-tacing your way to the top". Which describes many routes in the Red. Any time I have ever seen a comment where it says "awesome movement" or "really unique movement / unique line for the Red" it is the route that isn't a plumb line from bottom to top following a consistent hold type throughout. Maybe we are just talking about beta intensive. Something that from the ground cannot easily be unlocked or feels piss hard until you do it "right".

Also, just a pet peeve, but if you are going to get preachy and bold specific words to drive your point home, make sure those words are spelled correctly.

And also as a pet peeve, don't be a douche by being petty and pointing out grammatical errors.