RRC Archives

There needs to be an 80% reduction in the human population (sustainability). This type of jackassery gives me hope. CLIMB ON!

gumbies.. any idiot knows that miller high life is the new PBR

Some climbers were instructing a new belayer this weekend. They were backing her up, and doing a good job telling her how to use the Grigri, but not doing so well in telling her how to actively take charge of the safety of her climber. She and the instructors were standing way too far from the wall, before the climber clipped bolt 3. She should have crawled up the ramp to position herself just under and to the right or left of the climber's fall zone. Learning how to belay is not limited to managing a Grigri. Yes, I said something. In response to my notice they took two steps forward. Not good enough. How do we pass on the word? I think the responsibility is the climber's. Tell your belayer where you want her to be and why until you have clipped bolt X. The climber could have asked the belayer to do this while instruction was being given, otherwise the whole situation was unsafe and the instruction was inadequate.

Good one at the playground on Saturday. Guy has his girlfriend belaying him on the 10a, he gets halfway between the third and fourth bolt and doesn't want to commit to the move getting to the next bolt. So he is maybe 5 or 6 feet above the last bolt, looks down at his girlfriend and tells her he is about to fall and is she ready? "Umm no" she says. While hanging on above the last bolt he proceeds to try to instruct her on how to catch a lead fall, she clearly has no idea so he asks my other friend on the route next to him to run over and grab the brake strand from his girlfriend and give him a a catch... First time I have seen that but probably not the last, gotta love October in the red!

Also some gumbie fell on cruising lane, tore his pants open and had to bail off two nuts..

Drive By on Sunday... was the most competent (safe) day of climbers and belayers that I have seen amassed at any crag in recent memory. Seemed like everyone was on their sh** Double checking gear before climbing, hand on the brake side of rope, tying knots in ropes when people were hang dogging and they wanted to take brake hand off the rope. Crag was busy, but no massive groups gang banging the 10's.

It was shocking.

climb2core wrote:Drive By on Saturday... was the most competent (safe) day of climbers and belayers that I have seen

Well, they saw you and did not want to make the wkend idiot report.

caribe wrote:

climb2core wrote:Drive By on Saturday... was the most competent (safe) day of climbers and belayers that I have seen

Well, they saw you and did not want to make the wkend idiot report.

Ha Ha!!! I was hoping you might show up with your posse for some entertainment!

Not a bad week end...

Saw a group TR'ing Bandolier through fixed gear at the top. The were apparently "unaware" of the extra wear on the biners. Conveniently, I had a badly worn draw I had just taken off the top of Big Money Grip to show them (that would be subtle spray if I sent, but I didn't).

Oh, and one more gumball... saw him wear his harness down to the car at Torrent and then back to camp before he realized he still had it on.

Yep, that was this guy. At least I was staying at my buddies property and not at Miguels... or I am sure there would be photo-documentation.

Oh, and while I am on the topic of me... why is that everyone that I meet and finds out that I am C2C, says... "Oh, you are that guy!" (rhetorical)

post a picture.

EDIT: Whoops my bad... here he really is.