RRC Archives

krampus wrote:
I've been working on this for 8 years. I thought we were close last winter, but summer regression put us back at least 6 of those 8 years

Don't worry, he will find those big boy pants after he send Reliquary.

climb2core wrote:Location: Chicita Bonita wall
Climb: Hellava Caucausion aka Blakes Route (Grade 11c to 12a?)

The story:
Idiot #1 tries to climb route, can't pull roof and lowers.
Idiot #2 tries to climb route, and can't pull roof.
Idiot#3 tries to climb route, and forgets that he needs draws to finish the route. A good Samaritan is lowering on the climb next to idiot#3 and pulls some of the draws off his route to give to idiot#3. idiot#3 then Tries to pull roof and is unable, goes in direct and calls for the stick clip. Borrowed draws are lowered and returned to good Samaritan climber. Idiot#3 tries in vain to stick clip next bolt and can't do it. After 5 minutes good Samaritan climber (now on the ground) suggests he should tie into the rope now set up for TR on the adjacent line. Idiot #1 asks good Samaritan (some guy he has never met before and doesn't know his name) to belay him on 5.9. Meanwhile, Idiot#2 puts idiot#3 on belay on the adjacent line (proudly showing off his click up I might add) and is able to pull idiot#3 through the crux. He then goes in direct while idiot #2 switches his click up back to rope one. Idiot #3, all set now, heads off to finish the climb. However, apparently Blake was feeling spicy while bolting this line and decided to run out the last 20 ft to the chains. Idiot#3 ponders, climbs up, down and takes. Meanwhile good Samaritan is now belaying his buddy who we call idiot#4. Idiot#4 forgets that 5 draws have been removed from his route and has to go in direct while good Samaritan tossed up the draws. Idiot #3 is still in direct unsure how to proceed. Idiot#4 now with draws in hand heads up his route, passing by idiot#3. Idiot#4 gets to the chains of his route and confirms to idiot#3 that indeed there is no hidden bolt and it is a committing run to the chains. idiot#3 wisely decides that it is not worth it and he us going to bail. Good Samaritan asks idiot#4 if he can retrieve the draw that idiot#3 is in direct to. Idiot #4 confirms he can and idiot#3 bails from his draw collecting the rest of his gear as he goes. Idiot#4 lowers and retrieves the bail draw.

The players:
Idiot#1: scobro
idiot#2: caribe
Idiot#3: Latin friend of caribe who's name rhymes with starlos
idio#4: joeleismer
Good samaratin: c2c






Idiot #1 asks good Samaritan(some guy he has never met before and doesn't know his name) to belay him on 5.9.

Almost fell out of my chair laughing when you mentioned the clickup. Glad to see scobro was also there.

this IS climbing!

Yes it is Clevis. To reiterate, as Caribe mentioned, the climbers encountered a challenge and dealt with it in a safe and competent manner. Really the only gumbie thing was forgetting to bring draws.

Spot on and fucking hilarious. 

An idiot report from the west. I was at gumby magnet crag today (6 sport routes under 5.10 about a 2 minute hike from the road). We got there early to avoid the crowds but a group of four was already there. They had at least one competent person in their group although he did leave a draw mid-route and didn't realize it until I handed it back to him. A group of three guys roll in and then another group of three walked up, two girls and a guy. The first girl was working on a wheat beer of some sort and the guy had a PBR in his hand. It was 10:30 am. The crag is pretty busy at this point so I mention we'll be off our 5.6 in about 10 minutes if they want to get on it. I answer their questions about the two bolted routes not in the book and when they decide to get on the 5.7 I mention that it is pretty long, at least a full 60 but maybe more. Girl 2 (not drinking) says her rope hasn't been cut and PBR boy takes off up the route and Beer Girl cracks another beer (its about 10:45 now). Girl 2 tells him he shouldn't pull up slack until after he's clipped the draw into the bolt and comments to Beer Girl about how PBR Boy is sketchy. At some point Girl 2 remembers that her rope has been cut and I point out the ledge just right of the route that has numerous anchors and could be used to clean the roue in two rapels. PBR gets to the top and starts to lower. about 2/3 of the way down they realize that there is no way the rope is long enough. Girl 2 asks PBR Boy if he has a belay device so he can just rap from the ledge anchor. She then asks if he knows how to rapel. (Who knows how to lead but not rapel?) After saying something like "It's like belaying with two ropes, right?" they decide its best if PBR boy goes back to the anchors and hangs out there. He heads up and removes draws as he goes. Girl 2 tells him to leave the draws on the bolts and he starts to. He gets to the top and his belay (at least 120 feet below) is asking him to clip into the anchors. I pass the message along as I am mid route to the left of him. According to my partner he is taken off belay about 10 seconds before he yells down that he is in direct. Girl 2 pulls the rope and Beer girl polishes off her second beer and gets on belay. Girl 2 gets to the 5th bolt before realizing she didn't bring any draws to replace the ones that PBR boy removed. She is lowered down and back cleans some draws. Her belayer asks if she wants some more but climber says she has enough. About 5 bolts later, she realizes she is again out of draws. She repeats the process and moves onto the top. The belayer (Beer Girl) is setting up to second the route and says something about how Girl 2 is uptight and they're just out for a day of drinking a few beers and relaxing. We pack up our gear and head out, thankful they didn't bust their shit while were there.

WOW ???

I think Caribe must have been their mentor...

now that is ALL FuCKn Right!!

Sco Bro wrote:Spot on and fucking hilarious. 

remind me to run away fast from you gumballs....