RRC Archives

I climbed a new route at the bright side today that did not have perma draws.....no problemo to clean my draws, but I expect the community to serve me up with some in the near future.

is it a stretch, or am I being a drama queen, when I say that soon people will not need draws, gri gri, rope, or stick clip to climb at most major cliffs at the red..all gear shall be provided at the base. where will that line be drawn?

That thing is a chossy slabpile, Kipp, & the hardest move is 10+... of course it doesn't have draws!!

Dustin is mistaken in that I wanted to or did leave gear. Negative, good buddy. I don't climb at that cliff frequently enough to leave gear there.
Frankly I am with Dustin. The problem is with the mank. Unfortunately the crew did a poor job of discriminating, and if they had only removed the shitty gear and left the PD no one would be mad at each other. I think the thing to do is leave the low easy ones (the easy 12s or anything easily cleanable) hangable and stripable and use the PD of the routes they are needed for. Fewer fixed routes with state of the art gear are more easily monitored.

The mank is the problem and the mank occurs because well meaning people, like you Michelle, leave your gear and then abandon it/fali to clean it for a few seasons then we have faded draws and ginsu biners. That is the problem that PDs were supposed to be the solution to. And according to Cletus and one of his buds, over half of the gear removed was shite. So, if we are to believed Cletus et al, shockingly, shit still happens on the Undertow Wall.

Why am I'm being such a mean contrarian, Michelle? Is that your question? Because I don't want to climb on your gear, and you can't make me. But I may want to climb on the route your gear is on. So unless you hold the deed to the route or the cliff, please do not insist that I use your gear. So lets compromise, if you insist on leaving your gear up a route and don't want to clean it, please leave up the community standard of PD with steal biners. Kay? Then maybe I will be reassured that at least the gear dwelling is not some ginsu biner ready to shread my cord.

And fuck you Ray. Whatever your score is on redriverAnu, and just because you are the high lord priest guide book author with all ripply muscles and a mean arm tattoo, and just because you have your own secret cliff, and just because I have been out for a while, and just because I am old and weak and stiff and smell bad like an old man in a nursing home, make no mistake, Ray. I am coming for you, my friend. I am going for the gold. I will do your projects. I will best your score. I am BACK!

I'm so glad my sad little thread is getting some action....with a little traffic this thing is going to clean up great!

On another note....I'm in a rental car, merging onto 395 & halfway to Bishop...so eat my dirty panties all you buttsniffers!!! Time to go clip some fixed mank on the Eldorado Roof & love every chossy, blocky minute of it!!

dustonian wrote:That thing is a chossy slabpile, Kipp, & the hardest move is 10+... of course it doesn't have draws!!

nawdude, it was good.

don't text and drive. public menace.

that was part of the discussion at the last meeting...could it be agreed by all sides that if it is not steel cables and steel biners, it is gonna get stripped? any aluminum left overnight may be gone next day. so every project climber needs to carry a set of the steel PD's and always use those as their project draws. case closed.

and do not worry lurk...ray has been on the DL (disabled list, not the down low) for so long that I heard a nasty rumor he was spotted in the gorge in tight spandex cycling shorts. I have yet to confirm.

the lurkist wrote:The mank is the problem and the mank occurs because well meaning people, like you Michelle, leave your gear and then abandon it/fali to clean it for a few seasons then we have faded draws and ginsu biners.

Hugh - I have never "abandoned" gear on any route. The only draws I have ever left indefinitely are steel draws (Far From God, Cell Block Six, Iniquity). The draws I leave up are in fine shape and will only be up a few weeks, as is accepted practice in climbing.

Well-meaning people do not put up their draws and "forget" about them. What you're talking about are instances where people are consciously donating their gear to climbing (to increase traffic or whatever be the case) and don't plan to come back to it. There needs to be a distinction made here. We have seen this practice on the routes at the Beer Trailer, Taste the Rainbow, the new Ben & Laura routes, and more. Unless we identify these patterns and define what is acceptable and unacceptable, we cannot build a foundation to grow as a community.

so you are leaving PDs then. Then we have no problem, until your PDs wear out. But don't worry, I'll be there and as soon as your left gear shows wear, it's gone. Leave your forwarding address and I will pay the postage and see that you get them back. God forbid you sweat that I want your fucking draws.

btw Michelle, I asked Cletus and his friends. You didn't send them threatening emails like you did me. Why was that? They were the guys who actually TOOK THE DRAWS! So you targeted me? I can't decide to either be flattered or threatened by your special attentions. Thanks all the same.