What is better - Rapelling or Lowering?

[dbrayack]

I put lower instead of rappell in quotes there just fixed it.

[dbrayack]

There should be an option for "both/either". Situational awareness is key. If you are you cleaning after tr'ing the line, then rappelling isn't a big deal. Cleaning a steep route after leading, then lowering is a good idea. Cleaning a vert sport route or trad line after a lead - depends on the anchors: Some put a hella twist in your rope if you lower, so rappelling is the way to go. Some are set up to make lowering not a big deal, so I will lower.

And, thanks to everyone that brings a couple quick links with them every where to add to the anchors when they need some love.

Well, I'm assuming the 90 percent preference - when it can go either way....

[Myke Dronez]

That pesky situational awareness... problem solved with a little Wes wisdom- I think he is the first person after three pages to mention the rope wrecking qualities of some anchors. Do you folks lower off of rap hangers or just bitch about the lack of quicklinks? Bootie two biners every time?

[kdelap]

The forces during lowering are twice as much. The belayer’s weight counterbalances the climber’s weight. Thus two people’s weight, are on the anchors. When the rope rubs the anchors with this much weight it tends to wear out rings or links more than a third as fast. When rappelling, there is only the weight of the rope that causes abrasion to the rings. This also happens when you lower as well because you still have to pull your rope at the end.

Rapping is easier on the hardware, and just as safe.
Lowers are the right technique for some situations.

[krampus]

If you can't figure out how to clean on rappel, or when the situation call for a lower over a rappel, then you shouldn't be climbing, or at least not without someone who knows what they are doing. If you climbing guide does not know the difference, then you should not trust him/her as your guide.

[young'n climber]

[quote="dbrayack"]All 24 of you who voted "rappell" - can you clean some routes for me some time? =)
[quote]

Just because we voted that rapelling was better doesn't mean we all follow that trend. I rarely rapel, but I do feel it is better for the anchors, rope and the wu-tang clan. Im a slacker and I lower 95% of the time.

[ReachHigh]

I prefer to lower, but most of the time I rap because of rope drag or damage on slabs or windy trad routes and some concern to anchor wear. I'm not really worried about the capability of the person lowering me if I trusted them to belay me up in the first place. The speed of setting to lower is nice if the links are large enough for me to pass a loop of rope through.

[ahab]

i'm convinced this site has some sort of bot built into the programming that generates the same threads over and over every few months. ya know what i'm talkin' bout, the ATC vs. gri-gri, trad grades vs. sport grades, tick marks vs. no tick marks, dogs at the crag vs. kicking dogs at the crag debates/polls. i haven't even been on here a year, and i musta seen all of the above go thru at least 2 cycles. speaking of which, isn't it about time we debated methods to build climbing cardio...nvr mind.

[Josephine]

i'm convinced this site has some sort of bot built into the programming that generates the same threads over and over every few months. ya know what i'm talkin' bout, the ATC vs. gri-gri, trad grades vs. sport grades, tick marks vs. no tick marks, dogs at the crag vs. kicking dogs at the crag debates/polls. i haven't even been on here a year, and i musta seen all of the above go thru at least 2 cycles. speaking of which, isn't it about time we debated methods to build climbing cardio...nvr mind.

too true

[ReachHigh]

People are mad that they are at work instead of climbing and take it out on the forum. I know I am and you can go fuck yourself.