RRC Archives

chriss wrote:Nope, but you seem like a complete dipshit with diahera of the mouth. I always wonder why people feel the need to post such stupid shit time after time after time.

Sorry, but you are no saint and it isn't nice to call people names. Oh, by the way, diarrhea has two R's dumbass.

Saxman wrote:

chriss wrote:Nope, but you seem like a complete dipshit with diahera of the mouth. I always wonder why people feel the need to post such stupid shit time after time after time.

Sorry, but you are no saint and it isn't nice to call people names. Oh, by the way, diarrhea has two R's dumbass.

Thanks Bram, this place needs a built in spell checker.

Sure, its cool to bullshit all day long, but when someone gets hurt cleaning a route like ro, don't advocate cleaning it on rappel. That will get someone else injured.

chriss, this is why we call dipshit dumbasses* out for weighing in on every conversation. rec.climbing had Lord Slime for keeping the horrible beta at bay and embarassing people who weighed in on every thread with no credibility or experience. That's how people get hurt.

Glad to see you stepping up, I cannot do it all by myself and we need to think about people's safety.

*as a concept, not specifically calling names in this argument, but if you haven't downcleaned Ro then you may not have any legitimate insight into this conversation.

Cleaning Ro is a pain in the ass. If you've never cleaned something that steep before I could see a newer climber making some big mistakes there.

Several years ago I was at the 10 wall and we heard a loud yell and thump. Terry, not knowing how useless doctors are without all their toys, yelled "they need a doctor" and we went running over. A very experienced climber had been lowering after cleaning Ro on top-rope; he was trying to avoid a landing in the ground bee nest due to allergy and had remained clipped into the belay side of the rope. At some point he unclipped, the rope straightened and he dropped, I don't know how far he fell. Fortunately he was not significantly injured but he did have several days of misery. The belayer was also an experienced climber.

The point is gravity, as an engineering friend once told me, is cheap and reliable. We all make mistakes; in this sport, however, they have the potential to be unforgiving ones. Situational awareness, double check, don't fuck it up ... even the most experienced climbers among us has probably had the opportunity to look down and think "damn I could have died" and the belayer look up and think "damn I could have killed him". We all need to focus on not becoming yet another RRG accident.

I carry in my pack a screwlink and the smallest adjustable wrench I could find, which is good for retightening bolts as well. If when you're cleaning a worthy steep route, throw the screwlink on the appropriate bolt and tighten it down well so the f 'ing idiots can't take it.

Just don't climb with the wrench, that could get ugly, I usually lower a bight or something.

Bob, What you are suggesting is prevention to avoid the injury in the first place- that's no fun....

charlie wrote:we need to think about people's safety.

Since when do you care about people's safety on here? You have consistently put down and belittled everyone who has brought up bolting, cleaning, trundling, potential sewage at a crag, and route maintenance. Are you speaking for yourself or for the coalition? As the coalition you have said the RRGCC doesn't deal with climber safety, just access. As a person you have told everyone, "they need to sack up and quit whining" and "Dumbing it down to the lowest common denominator is a crime." You can't have it both ways.

Bob, thanks for the advice with a bit of humor that doesn't personally insult anyone.