Questions for "old schoolers"

[the lurkist]

Like you have ever been there. You are all talk.

[Horatio Felacio]

piss off you long-legged faggot.

[captain static]

Since the Grampians have been mentioned, readers might be interested in parts of the Bolting Policy of the Victorian Climbing Club:

1.3 Fixed protection is inappropriate on climbs that can be protected by natural means. Fixed protection should be used as a last resort and only to enable a climb to be lead with minimum risk of serious injury. (i.e. fixed protection should not be placed just to reduce the size of a fall where the fall can be considered safe.).

1.4 Fixed protection should not be added or moved on a climb (i.e. retro-bolting) that has previously been done by naturally protected means without the express permission of the first ascentionist. ... If bolt placement needs to be changed and the first ascentionist cannot be contacted then "local best practice" should be used. ... Routes exist where the first ascentionist wanted to create a climb in the purest possible style. Adding or moving bolts may alter the nature of the climb and devalue the efforts of the first ascentionist.

1.7 Fixed protection should be placed to prevent the risk of ground fall, hitting dangerous obstacles or factor two falls. However consistent with point the risk of a dangerous fall on an existing climb may not necessarily justify retro-bolting the climb.

5.5. When a piton is intentionally removed it should be replaced with a fixed hanger or ringbolt.

5.6. If a piton is unintentionally removed then it should not be replaced if good natural protection is available. Where good natural protection is not available a fixed hanger or ringbolt should replace the piton. ...

5.8. Where possible old fixed protection should be extracted from the rock. If appropriate, old 10mm holes should be re-drilled to 12mm and the new bolt placed in the same position. Note: in soft rocks extracting fixed protection may leave unsightly damage in the form of a crater.

5.9. Where old fixed protection cannot be removed the old protection should be cut off flush with the rock or(preferably) sheared off below the rock surface and the hole then plugged. Old bolts must not be left protruding from the rock surface.

5.12. Where there has been a change in bolt type, number or placement then the route description should be re-written by the person placing the bolts and published as a modified route (same as for new route descriptions).

[Lander]

Hey Wes, this is Neal. When we put up Toxic Avenger the ethic of the time demanded that bolts only be placed where you couldn't place any natural gear. There's a good horizontal at the top of it. I fixed some hexes there once but they became someones booty. The reason for the runouts wasn't so much to add "spice" but because it was such a pain to place bolts (first we only had a hand drill then a crappy cordless that was only good for three or four holes on a charge). But this was all in the unenlightened (Before Porter) era when sport climbing hadn't come into it's own and nobody knew much about bolting and good gear. So as far as I care that rig should have got a shiny chain anchor a long time ago! And I'm sure the bolts are long overdo for a changin'.

The only problem I see is WOD is in the Clifty Wilderness (so is Funk Rock) and the Forest Service might not approve re-equipping there ("motorized equipment" and all that). It sounds like Captain Static is up on all the rules and regs. But I think theres lots of old climbs that could use sound new anchors especially. Hope that helps.