Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:08 pm
First, off I did not personally "sculpt" a hold in Muir. Nor, did I authorize anyone to do so - other than the occasional practice of smoothing an area that tends to cut or shread ropes. For an example, there is knife edge that damaged a rope rigged as a TR above "Short and Sweet" during our Climbing Camp. In the near future, I will either smooth that edge or put in different anchors.
There are no "new moderates" at the BruiseBrothers Wall. And, this "old dad" did not improve a clipping hold there.
In MV - No holds will be created. No holds have been created or enhanced. Perhaps one exception - a couple years ago, a prank was played by developers when they temporarily bolted a chunk of rock onto a route -- an act that caused much wailing and gnashing of teeth by self-proclaimed rock ethicists, before they realized is was done as a joke.
In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.
Authorized route developers in MV agree to follow rules and guidelines that prohibit deliberate creating of holds.
If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.
If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.
Rick
There are no "new moderates" at the BruiseBrothers Wall. And, this "old dad" did not improve a clipping hold there.
In MV - No holds will be created. No holds have been created or enhanced. Perhaps one exception - a couple years ago, a prank was played by developers when they temporarily bolted a chunk of rock onto a route -- an act that caused much wailing and gnashing of teeth by self-proclaimed rock ethicists, before they realized is was done as a joke.
In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.
Authorized route developers in MV agree to follow rules and guidelines that prohibit deliberate creating of holds.
If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.
If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.
Rick
