RRC Archives

RRO wrote:

Don McGlone wrote:

charlie wrote:I thought the phrase was, "if in doubt, try and not let your friends talk you into getting soaked while they're at a hanging belay under a roof."

I realize Chuck's about as road worthy as they come since he's driven both Tackett and me all over the freakin SE the last few years that calling it a day and getting home before 4:30AM for a full day of work was probably a good call. Wish we were that smart, today is sucking ass.

when you are right old man you are right

I'm glad you guys appreciate my geeniush.

charlie wrote:I thought the phrase was, "if in doubt, run it out."

Nope. It's "when in doubt, pull it out."

i'd whip on it on my project (if i had one). i have the same cam that did about the exact same thing and it's fine. it makes placing it a little trickier.. but it holds just fine.

You could place it as a redundant piece high up and take a few nice, long whips.

Mmmm. Nice, long whips.

paul, you do have a project that the cam will work fine on....(north forty, remember)

My guess is that the manufacture will tell you to replace it...........doesn't matter what they really think, they won't want the liability of saying it was okay. Wes would be your test dummy if you want to give it a real world try.

curious, which climb did this happen on? i was just thinking about how to try to avoid this as i'm sure it's happened a few times to others. sliding the cam in deeper and using a runner brings the hassle off removal; if the section is hard (you indicated you were no more than 10 feet beyond the piece) then trying to place two opposable pieces to direct would not be desirable. do you ever use the sewn sling passive tri-cams?

Cliff- I thought about getting a set of tri cams but have not made the investment as of yet....
It happened on rebar at gold coast.....I was trying not to place too much gear and get pumped....it didnt work

I have talked/shown it to a few people I trust and considering the the lobes dont even engage anymore I'm probably going to

A:Keep it to bail off of....or B: donate it to Muir and see if rick would be willing to do a pull test with his nifty equipment and share the results..

I truly believe it is fine Gaar. I have also had the exact same blue cam; and it looks just as bad if not worse. I will try to find it and post a picture of it. This is the main reason that I have gotten rid of all my small metolious tcu's, they all look like they could have issues after one fall (usually). So I went to the C3's to save cost. More money up front, less in the long run.

I also agree that metolious would say replace it, but if you sweet talk them, there is always a chance that they will send you a new one because they will wanna test that one!

Tell the story about the fall! We've all done the same thing.