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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 2:16 am
by john e aragon
i don't climb 11 trad, but i think that Where Lizards Dare and Subatomic Fingerlock are 2 of the worst sandbags i've been on. i have also heard that Jungle Beat is stiff for the grade.
Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 1:38 pm
by 512OW
stix wrote:i know....i've done it that way....i still think it's hard
An 11b one move wonder is gonna be a harder move than any move on a sustained 11b. Maybe thats why you perceive it as hard....
Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 1:38 pm
by 512OW
john e aragon wrote:i don't climb 11 trad, but i think that Where Lizards Dare and Subatomic Fingerlock are 2 of the worst sandbags i've been on. i have also heard that Jungle Beat is stiff for the grade.
I could agree with calling Where Lizards Dare a 10a or so....
Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:45 am
by SCIN
I'm no pro on trad grades because there ain't much in the red above 5.11 but I always thought Pink Feat felt harder than 5.11d.
Five Finger Discount spanks me for 5.8 but I suck at laybacking and have fat fingers.
Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:25 pm
by kneebar
Pink Feat looks scary as hell to me, my guess is it would be bolted if it was just put up.
Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:23 pm
by JB
I once asked Ron Snider about routes up at Muscle Beach... his response:
"well... hell... i think we just top-roped most of that stuff... maybe we didn't. it's pretty cool what ends up in the guidebook"
Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:40 pm
by ynot
Sort of explains things. But then he was kinda non commital.
Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:38 am
by 512OW
Yeah, Pink Feat feels tough for 11d for sure.... and its DEFINITELY old school climbing.
The Shining could easily feel tough for 8 as well....