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Here's another little link I came accross today that discusses the interaction of core stength, stability, injury prevention and performance. I'm sure the physical therapist who wrote is probably just another fuck up though right?

http://www.steamboatpilot.com/section/news/story/37878

Hey flyinglow and gbarnett guess what?

I found another link that backs up my comments. But gee it's only MSNBC they're probably full of shit too huh?


http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/10753218/site/newsweek/

This is a very good little article (steamboat - not the MSN thing. haven't read it yet). I appreciate the information put out here and it is making me excited about getting into a more complete workout routine.

It's been a long time since I've been in school and read up on new training methods. I'm a little embarassed to say that some of this is new to me, but I'm glad to know it now.

Now to find more time.....

Wow this is beautiful!

Here's a liitle piece that was collaberated on by one of the worlds leading othopedic authories Dr. Ireland, and guess what she lives and works right here in Lexington, Just off New circle road as you pass Alumni. What a shocker huh? Well not really not for some of us who are familiar with her work and actually did an internship at the Kentucky Sports Medicine clinic.

http://www.udel.edu/PT/davis/Leetun_2004.pdf

Hey meadows, and Yasmeen you guys will probably appreciate this it specifically focuses on the female anatomy of motion.

I just read the MSN article. I'm a believer. I think I'll be doing some exercises tonight. Feel the burn, baby!!!

OB Juan wrote:Here's another little link Wes came accross today that discusses the interaction of core stength, stability, injury prevention and performance. Wes'm sure the physical therapist who wrote is probably just another fuck up though right?

http://www.steamboatpilot.com/section/news/story/37878

I think you're missing the point. All of these articles say that core strength helps reduce the chance of limb injury. I don't think anybody is arguing that this is not the case. The only point I was disputing is your claim that weak core muscles is the number 1 cause of injury in dynamic sports. Which none of the articles you linked to indicate.

The only reason I care, is because I don't like when people advertise some small facet of overall health as being the solution to one's problems. Some poor guy is going to hear you say that core conditioning is the most important thing with regards to injury prevention, and neglect to evaluate other problems with his workout routine, or climbing routine. Then he's going to wonder why he keeps getting injured even though he followed the advice of an expert.

"Then he's going to wonder why he keeps getting injured even though he followed the advice of an expert."

wow, did I read this wrong... are you now calling OB Juan "an expert"?

OB Juan why do you have to be such a dick? Even if your info is credible or even if your motives are meant to enhance the community, wouldn't we be better served by your not being such an ass? And it IS a valid point that if you throw around your extensive education that it be questioned when you write like a 3rd term 4th grader. I know these forums are at least lurked by some world class climbers, and there are some mighty fine member climbers. Core strength is far from a new concept in the community due to the Red's excellent steep routes. You are talking down to people whether you realize it or not.

Gbarnett, I see youv'e read a bit (1 article), continue to gain insight by finishing up the other two articles I've posted immediately following the one you've read. Most limb injuries (joint and tendon) can be traced back to a relational failure between the musculature of the limb and lack of sufficient strength and stability within the core muscles of the body, including your ankle tear (with enough information available). That being said I stand by my initial statement about lack of core strength being the number one cause of limb injuries. The vast majority of limb injuries are not the result of a twist or lateral force applied from and outside source, they are the result of the body being placed in a position that places unsustainable forces at a given tendon or joint, forces that can be better sustained with improved core strength and conditioning.

I'm trying to be nice here gbarnett I understand you've had an athletic injury and have been exposed to a minimal amount of therapy but that does not qualify you to dispute my comments or the links I've posted to them. My references are rock solid and you know it. As for the poor fool that gets on this sight and thinks doing core exercises are the end all to be all they are just that, A FOOL. I didn't claim it was an end all to be all I claimed that improving core strength and condition would reduce the extent of injuries on the wall.

I made an assumption that people who read trianing threads for climbing are probably practiced climbers just like the ACC assumed that it's readership was probably athletes or trainers or what ever from the athletic community. There are some things that are assumed when writing the first of which is that your audience is familiar with the community and topic about which they are reading. That basically means the authors of articles don't insult the intelligence of they're audience, unless of course some member of the audience insists on being a nit picker and is only interested in trying to discredit the writer to and therefore bolster their own low self esteem.

Gulliver, You are probably very right I have become a dick about this thread. Having read thread after thread that could be very informative and beneficial I've repeatedly seen posters do nothing but pick out insignificant shit and tear a person down without reason. I was questioned as to my authority to make the statement I made to start this thread and when given some low life then criticized my character and tore me down for being educated in this field. I say this; If the poor bastards can't take it then they shouldn't attempt to dish it out.

For the benefit of those who have viewed this thread with any real interest Please forgive me if I seem like a dick. I'm just sick and tired of the, tear everyone down attitude if they attempt to introduce a topic that's not familiar.