Bolt jobs

Post by **Christian** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:57 pm

allah wrote:no no no my bolts cros over the start of that route thats all, i forgot that it was a route when i bolted it mainly cause i had that line in my head for a long time and when i got a drill to use i put it in not thinking.

Thinking with your drill again instead of your brain.

Post by **allah** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:02 pm

Yea it was you drill crusty old man, dont worry i whiped it clean hahahaha

And i always think with my drill instead of my brain

Post by **Christian** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:14 pm

let us not pick on the old crusty guy too much. His drill doesn't get the work out it once did.

Post by **the lurkist** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:38 pm

The hammer setting is hit or miss. The rotary setting still works, but that's not as fun.

Post by **RRO** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:40 pm

sandy,
ok here it is. we get allah on fmm. while he is trying to use his tiny sport brain figuring out the anchor with crumbly #5/6 cams we block the far side with chockstone. once he gets in the tunnel he will see there are no crimps or pretty features to use and his tiny sport brain will flip out yet again. by that time we will have pushed over the loose belay ledge on the opening. the skinny little f'r will starve to death in a matter of days. thats the only rational thing to do.

Post by **haas** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:42 pm

sounds like a plan to me

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 11:14 am

I can't afford to continue buying hangers, therefore I'm going to do my part to start putting up more mixed routes. Anytime there is a crack or horizontal that takes good gear on a route then it will no longer get a bolt. Also, as long as they are clean falls, then I'm going to start putting them farther away up high on the routes because it is too damn expensive. The routes will still be relatively safe, but it might be helpful to carry a few tcus or tricams to protect the runouts.

Post by **Andrew** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 11:23 am

Sounds like NC. The last ten sport routes I did required at least two or three pieces of gear, and they were sport routes. I have a new found respect for bolting or the lack of bolting, since I have moved to NC. Moores wall has a very strong ethic about bolting and anchors. You will never find a bolt anywhere near a place that will take natural pro, even if the placement would be crappy. Most routes don't have anchors, you have to use a shared anchor, and alot of the routes are very runout. I have been on alot of 12+ and 13 sport routes that require a few pieces of gear.