The Quest

Post by **ynot** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:21 pm

There's no waiting in line to lead one either. I just like anything wide. Finger cracks kick my butt and are painfull, so I'll never be well rounded,but I still love climbing.
Danny,remember that first 5.9 OW you did and got so beat up you swore you would never do it again? It got better. Lorax tree nearly killed me but I like OW now.

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:24 pm

Off topic but.....did you guys hear that OW master Craig Luebben's was here recently? He went out and got on When Doves Cry. I thought that was pretty cool. He's done some hard OW shit all over the world.

Post by **Caspian** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:27 pm

OW climbing is some of the most creative climbing I have ever done. I agree with danny, its great to climb with your whole body.

Post by **Toy** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:40 pm

My bad guys. I forgot OW was part of the climbing decathlon. You got me. I guess I'll have to stick to the measley pentathlon. Hiking, Trundling, Drinking, Spraying, and Climbing routes that are fun and don't suck.

Well-rounded. Doesn't that just mean you're fat

JR-are you saying what I'm saying without knowing it. what are you smoking dude?

Post by **TradMike** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:42 pm

I enjoy offwidths. It's definitely the more memorable part of a route. My first full-on offwidth was this 5.10 offwidth out at the top of Squat Rock in South Platte, CO. You can't lay it back and it's too big for fists. I never struggled so hard in my life. When I mean hard, I was gripping at full strength while slowly oozing off only to catch myself by shear luck to only repeat a hundred times to move only 15ft. I got to the top and nearly puked. Now that's climbing when you have to throw the book at something for a centimeter of progress.

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:46 pm

Toy wrote: Well-rounded. Doesn't that just mean you're fat

I always liked the saying "Just being well rounded equals a big zero."

Post by **ninesixfour** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:56 pm

512OW-
I think you're stretching it again. I haven't climbed plastic (not that there's anything wrong with that) in many years. You're right; I'm not proficient at OW climbing nor did I say I was a good all-around climber. As has already been stated, we climbed The Quest and it was hard for us. When compared to other similar style climbs we'd done (WW, NE of Higher Cathedral) it felt pretty stout.
You can call me one-dimensional but Astroman's climbing resume is second to none and the point is that his opinion of the grade on a route like The Quest is well worth listening to. From The Nose in a day (over 10 years ago) , Astroman, The Rostrum, The Salathe, Red Zinger on-sight, to 5.13 sport routes in France, some scary stuff in NC, bouldering V9 in the early 90s....he's done it all, the very definition of a well-rounded rock climber.

Post by **Danny** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:03 pm

Oh man, NE of Higher Cathedral is the best route ever. What is WW?

Post by **Day** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:04 pm

Though I never got to be a real expert at offwidth, I too think that it's cool. My motivation for attaining reasonable proficiency with all techniques was more along the lines of just wanting to be able to climb anything that I was presented with. To just tie in and climb, to be able to move rapidly and efficiently over any terrain, any medium, rock, snow or ice, no excuses, was the ultimate freedom, and for me the climbing experience I was looking for.

Post by JR » Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:06 pm

Artsay, I loved your last comment. It raises questions in my mind like. Who or what is a proficient, all around climber? And what I think your hubby is eluding to with his "It all comes down to what you want to achieve with your climbing goals." statement. Is being proficient in all facets of climbing a achievable goal? I personally consider Ray to be the most proficient, all around climber I know. Despite the fact that he doesn't ice climb, I don't think he has even been to Yosemite, has not sent v10 or 5.14, never uses tri-cams, dislikes aid climbing, seems to enjoy climbing plastic, does 90% of his so called all around climbing at the Red. So is he really a all around climber? I think so. But I personally don't break down all around climber into such small parts. My all around climber definition looks like this.
Sport...Check
Trad.....Check
Bouldering.....Check
Super, you my friend are an ALL AROUND CLIMBER. And as you might have guessed this is the shit I like to do. No kidding. I am sure you are thinking wait a minute here. What if this person is not great with crimps, off-width, or dyno's? Or worse what if you like ice climbing and think ice climbing should be included on my personal all around climber checklist. Or hold on stop the press. Bouldering? Are you serious, that is pebble wrestling practice climbing.

So Artsay I can not entirely agree with your "you can't be a proficient, all around climber without knowing how to climb OW".