Page 5 of 5

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 12:32 pm
by J-Rock
Uh oh! :shock: Next time I am over there that hold is coming down! Ha ha ha... :twisted: By the way, I still have a few more flavors of rat stew to try. The garlic was tasty and so was the barbecued wood rat. Now I'm thinking about maybe having sweet and sour wood rat. :D

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:04 pm
by Lateralus
Meh, big deal. A 5.6 that would have been done a lot now will likely never be done with the 5.10-11 move. There is so much good rock in the gorge that I don't think a widespread hold bolt on frenzy will start because someone did this on 1 route. I really don't have a problem doing this if the route is 5.whatever for the entire route except for one section which is way way harder.

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:32 pm
by Stewy911
dude the point is that there is bolted rock on rock. its absolutely absurd dude and yes this could possibly start a trend but you never know. the move can be done without it. there are a ton of good routes in muir that are one move wonders so i guess your saying that you should add a hold on them as well to keep the grade consistent. BULLHONKEY!!!

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:42 pm
by meetVA
To a certain extent one could argue that the bolts shouldn't be there either. I mean, if you are meant to get a rest, then finish the climb, top out and rap down, don't hang.

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 3:12 pm
by mcrib
I don't think this one hold should shake the foundations of sport climbing.

Re: Bad Hybrid at Muir Valley: hold bolted on?!

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 4:52 pm
by Sco Bro
Squeeze, I agree with you that it's not my decision, it's not my land. I never said it was:
Sco Bro wrote:Someone bolted a piece of rock onto the climb to make it 5.6. I'm interested to see everyone's opinion. I think it's a poor, poor choice.

In my humble opinion (I don't bolt routes, I don't own the land), I think a climb should be left as is, as much as possible.
It is ultimately the landowner's decision. I wanted to know what others thought about the practice, hence the post.

Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 12:45 pm
by Huggybone
My thought when I cam upon it: Gee, how odd. I'll bet the idea was to get people to flame.

Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 1:31 pm
by Saxman
It is a good thing I don't own my own crag. I would pull all kinds of silly shenanigans. When it's your land, anything goes. Take one section of cliff, enclose it in steel and class, and condition the air. Year round 65 degree dry rock with no insects or sunburn.

Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 3:54 pm
by Zspider
Wes wrote: The number one sin, though, is altering the route after the FA.
And even that isn't anything anybody except a climber is going to get excited about.

And as mentioned, if the rock is private property, whatever the owner wants to do with it is pretty much his own damn business. He can spray paint it blue or chisel a staircase in it if he wants.

ZSpider