whatever happened to onsight climbing???

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri Aug 05, 2005 9:07 pm

While reading the Mt. Lemmon guidebook last night I came across the following quote:

"If you need to tick the holds on Steve's Arete, stay in the gym. If you do tick something, clean it off when you are done so other climbers can onsight them."

Note: Before I am attacked for saying this, note that those were the author's words... not mine. I just thought it was fitting for the thread on onsight climbing to see what others had to say in another part of the country.

Post by **skibum** » Fri Aug 05, 2005 10:38 pm

who are you people

Post by **kneebar** » Sat Aug 06, 2005 11:41 am

I just got a chance to check out the new guide..........tons of info, very well done.

Post by **bhuff04** » Sat Aug 06, 2005 5:58 pm

Jared kudos for putting that post up man. I fully agree, if you just take your ticks off after you're done on the route than that'll make climbing that route a shit ton more enjoyable for all.

Post by **pawilkes** » Mon Aug 08, 2005 3:18 pm

i got on a route this weekend that Meadows offered to let me try to get the FA on so i was thinking "sweet, a real onsight attempt" but when i got on it i realized that it already had tick marks even though it was a whole 5 hours old

Post by **Alan Evil** » Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:33 pm

I donot understand tickmarks. Is it because people can't see very well? And why don't they clean up after themselves? Are these the same people that leave water bottles at the bottom of climbs and just dump their garbage in the parking lot? Scabies was covered in tick marks a few weeks back! It's a short 5.9!!! WTF?!? If you can't get that in a few tries without putting chalk marks to point to every hold and foot placement you need to just stick to climbing in a gymn. Why the hell are you even bothering to go out into the woods in the summer time if you're just going to dirty it up? I'm surprised you people don't just use spray paint. GAH!!!

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:56 pm

I am guilty. I love tick marks. It helps me differentiate between useful chalked holds, and sucker chalked holds at the Red...and then you'll need to tick my ticks...

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Aug 09, 2005 2:20 am

A memory works well too! So does the ability to read a route and hang on to the holds whether they are good or bad.... half of the fun is finding the good holds. Ah... there's the jug! Oh yeah, I knew it was up there somewhere!

Post by **Danny** » Tue Aug 09, 2005 2:40 am

Outside I hear a lot more whining about routes that don't have enough chalk than ones that have too much.

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Aug 09, 2005 2:43 am

Yep, I've noticed that too!