RRC Archives

People use and tick different holds, or parts of holds. I have grabbed holds that were ticked that sucked - might be an intermedite or even a foot. And I have ticked holds with little to no chalk on them that worked better for me. So, just because it is ticked, doesn't mean it will work for you.

JR,

Oh yea, I remember that day...and if I remember correctly, Sonya asked me something about the route and it's difficulty and I said that I thought it was easier than .12a because I don't get .12a that easily.

There's a difference between discussing a route's grade with friends and whining about it.

So I probably should rephrase my statement to include the difference. Thanks for bringing that up because there is a difference (to me). Honestly, I'm just so sick of folks spewing about Muir being soft and over bolted. Sure, I've climbed routes there I thought were soft or had too many bolts but I still love the place. If I don't want to clip a bolt, then I won't, and if I onsite a .12a (not Happy Fisherman) there then damn straight I'll think it's soft because I don't onsite .12a's (YET! ) But to have the attitude of it being "just another soft Muir route", which is something I hear a lot, just gets old.

Meadows, that is true, but they are pretty big injuries. broken back and dislocated and broken elbow. but i try to climb when all my parts work... i guess if i only sport climbed i would never get hurt, but then again i wouldnt be having as much fun.

Artsay wrote:
There's an old school humility that seems to be lost in climbers today.

There's an old school humility that seems lost in the world today.

I don't know... I don't think people were all that humble "back in the day." I think that it's just easier to make your opinions and accomplishments available to the public these days.

Artsay wrote: There's an old school humility that seems to be lost in climbers today.

what does this mean? i've always thought that old school meant suffering then sandbagging. this isn't even close to anyone these days. didn't "old school" climbers used to actually fight when it came to grades and outdoing each other? it's all the p.c. androids that have infiltrated climbing that screwed everything up.

Not the humility, so much as the general attitude. Not that I've been around that long but "I remember back in the day...."

Climbers have always been cocky, but they still maintained a certain amount of respect for those that went before them with the FA's. Seems when I first started climbing other climbers were people of similar interests and not that common in the regular world. I saw them to be more about wanting to get out and enjoy the place and to get away from the normal crowds that plague us in the 9 to 5 or while hanging around town. These days the Red is so damn popular it's essentially a representative sample of the real world, same bunch of marginal people with little personality we see around town and not really a choice sample of cool kids at all. Only difference now with the regular population is they're all climbers so they consider themselves cooler than the rest of the population. Artificially promoted on the coolness scale so to speak.

Now, back to something of overwhelmingly pressing importance, like tick marks.


People are so damn whiny about things. Get over it, life's tough all over so be thankful that you have the opportunity to climb all these beautifully ticked up routes.

Carry on.

You took the words right out of my ... head. I just hope I'm not one of those people.

When I was in college I was lucky enough to hang out and climb with some old southeast dudes and they're just humble as hell. Shit, I can't even remember their names... Doc Baines or something, some nut named Bob, and a few others. They did a lot up in NC. The extreme mountaineerers and ice climbers I've met have been this way too. They climb to climb and actually hide from recognition. Folks around them would spray for them because they wouldn't! Maybe it comes from being in a more extreme climbing area (more committment). I just remember the feeling I got from being around them and the only guys I get that feeling from now are Arno and the late Johnny B.

JR, I thought the Happy Fisherman was easier than 12a, which I had no problem sending in 90+ heat and the fact that it was very dirty at the time. I went on the input of others that climbed it that day.Then the consensus on the online guide kept saying 12a, so we left it at 12a. I have even been called candyass for calling route 10c instead of 10b.Climbers these days can be very cruel to one another ,and to set the record straight I have ongsighted many real RRG 5.12s.JR who ever you, maybe one these i can inspire myself to climb and rate routes as good as you.