RRC Archives

It's a Wonderful has a guaranteed no hands rest, we're talking sit down. I mean you could build a cabin, plow a garden, take a dump, throw fecal matter at your belayer, whatever.

Is the 3rd or o bolt still missing from Its a Wonderful ? I have not been on those routes in years. Fun route, not 3 stars , still worth getting on.

I was on it a year or more ago and I don't remember any bolts missing, but you definitely do not want to fall moving off that ledge and up a bit to clip that next bolt. Was there a bolt between the face you start on, the big ledge and the next face? I can see someone putting one there to ensure safety, but the rope drag would be a bitch.

You can also top the route out for a great view and spot for lunch, but there are anchors well before the top out. If you're just getting comfortable with 5.9 I wouldn't top it out, the rocks a bit fragile and the moves a little weird. And then you have to figure out how to get off. Don't use the two anchors bolted to the top, you won't be able to pull the rope from the bottom.

My problem with sunshine and moonbeam is this: Theres a reciculous over-choice of holds theyre holds literally everywhere, and theyre all chalked up heavily, both the good and the bad, my guess is because climbers sort of feel around for holds. Im sure theres 5.12 or harder beta for both of those. The first trip to the red for me began with those routes, i had such a hard time! Then went over to fuzzy, it honestly felt 2 grades easier. Thats the red.

J.J. and I are looking for two short easy sport routes next to each other. We are going to name them "Sunbeam" and "Moonshine".

I think you should name one easy climb Sunbeam and we'll set up a moonshine still next to it, but we can rate both on the guidebook. Sunbeam can be 5. whatever and Moonshine will be 5.6X because anyone can do it, but you might die.