Need Illinois guidebook

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Aug 25, 2003 7:47 pm

Andy,
That is sooo funny, as I got on point blank this weekend, and fared the same as you. holy cow, the top on that is insane. granted, it was only my second climb of the day, but it seemed stiff for the grade you are suggesting. however, the rock was just sandy enough (and two holds broke on me) that I doubt I'll be back on it.

right after the gear placements, at the top of that flake, there was a copperhead on the ledge. talk about getting my pants wet...he was a good three feet away, but it took all I could to continue above his head I have these visions of falling, and swinging back under there and hitting him.

i may take you up on your offer to help clean the guidebook up. it is a great resource, just a bit hollow right now. but instead of complaining, I am up for helping out.

as far as the "throat" routes...I believe the far right one (sore throat I think) is the one Sherman had chopped. it still has the anchors at top, and is now just tr'd. I would give all of them mid 5.10 ratings. don't know the bolt counts, but will find out next time down.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Aug 25, 2003 9:04 pm

andy,
I just made a few changes. Unless I am mistaken, Eartbound Misfit has been mis labelled. It is not the first bolted line to the right of psychoTherapy. That first line is one of the "Throat" routes. Also, the 10 next to Yuppie is called Walrus
I do not believe Misfit to be fully bolted, but I'll check my records at home tonight.

Post by **tomdarch** » Mon Aug 25, 2003 11:02 pm

Is there a way to pull out of the rc.com listing the routes that are newer than the last Ulner guide book, or should I just bust out the pencil and the book and start comparing? Would it be possible to add a note to the listing like "not in printed guide"?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 12:11 am

Where are you guys talking about?Is this all one area

Post by **tomdarch** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 12:47 am

andy_lemon wrote:Ok, to the right of Group Therapy is Psychotherapy 10c then Earthboundmisfit 10b (more like a 9)...

Would this be the first bolted route to the right of Psychotherapy?

Post by **andy_lemon** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 4:13 am

Tom... yes, I believe Earthboundmisfit is the first line to the right of Pschotherapy. Me and Jeff Stockton have had a complete discussion on this and never really figured it out but came to a mutual understanding that we both believe the newer routes are to the right of Earthboundmisfit taking into consideration the age of the bolts, the bolt count, and the route discriptions in Eric's Guide. I will run your idea by Jeff, to see if we can work together and get the routes that aren't in the guidebook marked, however when the new guide comes out this will be more work for us to goback and correct. Will keep you posted. p.s. don't write shit down in the Gallery, we are working on that.

J.H. Yes, this is all at Jackson Falls in SoIll. A huge freakin canyon with 4 waterfalls which if you come in the fall you will see running, and they run strong in the fall/spring. Come visit, we will be glad to be your guidebook.

pigsteak... glad you got on Point Blank!!! That's great. The FA's will be glad to hear someone is climbing it. Personally, I believe the crack (about 5.8ish) is the easiest and the funnest section of the climb. The bouldery start is pretty cool too, hope you didn't make things hard on yourself and miss that nice blind throw to the dish around the corner. The top sucks.

Thanks for helping with the guide... it will be great to have more info coming from more than two sources as it is right now. If you have info on the bouldering that would be great too. I have been working on finding names for the stuff that is by Railroad Rock.

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 4:08 pm

andy,

perhaps the best boulder problem at railroad is this very cool rail that goes at v4...we named it "Stacy's Geology". It is a sit down, going right to left, topping out on the arete. you can't miss it....I have the names of probably a dozen problems at RR Rock which we established 3 winters ago....you are welcome to my list. I have made small drawings as well as notes on the lines we put up.

I did miss that throw around the corner! getting into the crack after the bouldery start was very tough without it.

So how do you want to do this? Do you want me to go in and edit freely at rc.com, or qwould you guys prefer I just give my beta to you. Doesn't matter to me. Or you can give me a section of rock to "clean up", and I will go from there.

Post by **tomdarch** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 6:46 pm

andy_lemon wrote:Tom... (snip)p.s. don't write shit down in the Gallery, we are working on that.
(snip)

What? I don't know what you're getting at. Maybe some other Tom is doing whatever you're refering to.

Post by **t bone** » Tue Aug 26, 2003 8:33 pm

I added some routes and 1 area last night.

Post by **andy_lemon** » Wed Aug 27, 2003 3:18 am

Tom.. I'm lost? I meant don't right down the beta on the new routes from the Gallery because they are inaccurate.

pigsteak... I've looked at the problem that goes right to left, a thin finger crack? It is on a slab... I didn't think it goes V4 but I haven't got a chance ot get on it yet. It would make for a kick ass picture I know that! If you can edit freely please do so. I think most of the info we've added is accurate except for the routes you've given me. Add away man.

tbone... awesome.