Page 5 of 10

Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 9:38 pm
by Aenima
Ro is not a stemming piece of shit,

It's a heel hooking piece of shit! :D

Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 10:46 pm
by marathonmedic
I really liked the footwork on Ro. As for it being soft, who cares? Breaking a number grade is harder than a letter grade for some reason. If you have to do a "soft" route to help with that psychological hurdle, go for it.

Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:53 pm
by J-Rock
Okay, how about this? Ro could be 11d if your are 5' 7" or taller. Or 12a if you are 5' 6" or shorter. Perhaps this would be a good time for a slash grade like 11d/12a? Really though 11d or 12a doesn't seem like much of a difference.

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:25 am
by pigsteak
it's 12a.....ask rhunt.

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:36 am
by Spragwa
Pigsteak's an ass-catcher.

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:43 am
by pigsteak
just what exactly is an ass catcher, so I can know if I should feel offended or elated?

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 1:00 am
by J-Rock
I was looking through some of my old "Climbing" magazines and I found an article about the Red (Issue No. 161) from 1996. It listed "Andromeda Strain" as a 5.10c. (A good book that Michael Crichton wrote back in 1969). Personally I think it feels like 10a, but that's just me. I'm not really going to think any differently if the route is 9+, 10a, 10b, 10c, 10d, etc. I would just conclude that the route is in the 9-10 range and leave it at that. Maybe we were better off before the letters got added to the number grades because so much time is wasted squabbling about whether something is 10a or 10b, etc. Ad infinitum et absurdum, or whatever, I'm drunk, I don't know.

Others:

Face Up to That Crack 5.7
To Defy the Laws of Tradition 5.9
AWOL 5.10a
Crazyfingers 5.10b
Tissue Tiger 5.12a
Infectious 5.12a
Orange Juice 5.12b
Mercy the Huff 5.12b
Wild Gift 5.12c
Appalachian Spring 5.12d
Autumn 5.8
The Perforator 5.9
etc.

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 4:57 am
by J-Rock
Image

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:41 pm
by Spragwa
They probably asked Hugh for the grades. He's famous for saying "aww, it's only a 5.9" NOT!

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 3:56 pm
by J-Rock
Maybe, Buster wrote the article though.