RRC Archives

I love reading this thread! Went to the Stadium in Lexington Thursday night to work on overhung stuff. While I don't like climbing indoors, it was fun (and, of course, easy with the hand holds) to get my head and my legs working together on overhung stuff. I'm hoping I can apply tomorrow in London. Overhung climbs are really holding me back from jumping on more fun stuff. Not to change the thread, but does anyone else have a certain move or type of climbing that just shuts you down?

Hell yeah, slabs shut me down. After comfortably climbing on overhanging stuff and learning to be comfortable with climbing, slabs scare me to death. They also hurt my toes...LOL. I promise that I use my feet but on slabs you're totally on them and it hurts my piggies. I'm such a whiner.

Yes ..Trad Mike, I did do the variation on the Mummy for the first time, and thought it added to the climb!!!!

Okay, Grrl! We must climb! I love slabs! I love that 8 to the right of Wadcutter! Yoga makes me stronger in the LE! Maybe we could tag-team some climbs! I'll do the slab, then you relieve me for overhangs! Bwa, ha!

Norma (Canuck) and I had an adventerous day at Raven Rock Saturday. Because of some confusion interpreting the guide book we decided to hike to the top to find the end of Nevermore after walking past the start. After I wrapped into space, and while jugging back up, Norma found the traversing crack that leads to the top. In two raps we were at the base. I had a 65 meter rope so I was excited about trying to do the whole thing in a single pitch. I climbed a straight line from the base to the bolted section of the 4th pitch. I got in some good gear a little beyond the first pitch but could find nothing on the face above. There was a large dead tree hanging down to my right along the face that may have been covering up some cracks where gear could go. I was very nervous that holds would break and as I got further from my last piece I would scan cautiously until I'd find a foot that I could rock up on without cranking on crimpy edges. I thought of climbing into the dead tree and slinging it somewhere but a fall woul d have probably disloged it to send a ton of wood along with me. I was mentally exahusted when I got to the ledge. This type of climbing is one of the joys of climbing but there is a line beyond which I prefer to avoid and here I'd been wolllowing in it. I put a four foot sling on the first bolt of the 4th pitch and moved up into the left diagnal crack section. The 11mm rope was heavy but the feet on the last pitch were good and I managed without too much difficulty. At the top I let out a big ol WOOOOOO! Climbing it in this style was fantastic but I can definitely say NEVERMORE!

We lowered our backpacks off from the top and walked back down to the base. Norma did a heady onsight of Premature Burial. She kept cussing about the splitter crack being full of sand but when I climbed it next it was perfectly clean. Dispite her hallucinations she ran out the top to the friable ledge and anchors.

Dead of Winter is a fantastic route that starts off with 80 feet of an offwidth dihedral formed by a large detached block. Norma did a great job seconding this. It was her first offwidth and she fell only once. It was getting late so I hurriedly began the roof hand crack of the next pitch. In my haste I wrapped the rope around my leg while clipping the #3 at the lip. As I was struggling around the lip Norma pointed this out but I couldn't fix it till I got over the lip. I scrambled up the slab to the top and wrapped back down from the railing. It was dark by the time we got down to the base.

On the hike in we parked at the iron bridge and bushwacked along the river to the old road. On the way back we decided to leave our packs at the forest service gate and walk the road back to the car. When we drove back down the road to the gate motion detectors tured on bright lights at every house. When we got out to retrieve our packs a man yelled "who are you". We looked back to see a large figure in the road with a flash light. "We're not parking. We're just picking up some packs." While backing out Norma asked, "Should I back into his drive to turn around?". With my head cowered a little to avoid a bullet I whimpered "No, just keep backing up."

We made it to Derby Fest just in time for the strip tease.

Danny, Damn it! I was looking for you guys and left just before the strip tease.

I got to lead this weekend since the ankle injury and I took practice falls. My belayer (that Wes guy on here) was so patient through all my "takes" and very encouraging. Thanks! Oh, he's a very awesome catch, btw.

No worries, it was a fun day for sure. Hope I didn't stretch your rope out to much with my fall. At least your rope knows how to hold a 30+ footer now...


Wes

dipsi wrote:Okay, Grrl! We must climb! I love slabs! I love that 8 to the right of Wadcutter! Yoga makes me stronger in the LE! Maybe we could tag-team some climbs! I'll do the slab, then you relieve me for overhangs! Bwa, ha!

Dipsi, we should totally climb together. I really want to get over my fear of slabs...you should see me whine on Face Up to that Crack. Seriously, leading it freaked me out. Catherine was belaying me and I know that she was laughing. Man I will whip on over hanging stuff all day long though.

Dipsi, we should totally climb together. I really want to get over my fear of slabs...you should see me whine on Face Up to that Crack. Seriously, leading it freaked me out. Catherine was belaying me and I know that she was laughing. Man I will whip on over hanging stuff all day long though.

I hate slab too Sprag and that one at torrent that Dipsi is talking about is my LEAST favorite.

Have you led Chimp? That didn't seem like such a bad slab route...

Anyone been on Strict 9? What are your thoughts...? I ccame off it swearing like a sailor last weekend. So close yet so far away!

Thanks all! This stuff is really fun to read!