Inflated Grades
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
FYI, I had Dave Hume confirm the grades at the Motherlode. You can blame him for the ratings since I couldn't climb any of those routes without hooks.
I think downgrading of routes is easier after you have experience on that type of climbing. When the first super big routes went up at the Lode, they were unique and most climbers didn't have the fitness and ability to do them well, thus the harder ratings. Nowadays, any fatboy can send that junk cause they figured out the training beta.
I think downgrading of routes is easier after you have experience on that type of climbing. When the first super big routes went up at the Lode, they were unique and most climbers didn't have the fitness and ability to do them well, thus the harder ratings. Nowadays, any fatboy can send that junk cause they figured out the training beta.
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Roentgen Ray
- Posts: 227
- Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 5:28 pm
Allah is right on man. And lurkmeister, don't back down to SCIN. You guys left out a few though. C sharp or B flat is totaly 5.6c not 5.7, Wadcutter's gotta be 5.8d, more like 5.8b if your a bowler, Mr Bungle can't be tougher than 5.7d if you take a broom up with you to clean him up a bit. Brother Stair is a solid 5.9a, but Face Up to That Crack goes at an easy 5.6d, especially if you sew up that crack with 3 or four pieces to take the fear factor out. Dude, I totaly sent all those in 4or fewer tries, except Wadcutter, I'ld been out of bowling for awhile and just couldn't grip those little pockets up high and whipped at that same place 12 times before she went. The rest were cake though.
Quod me nutrit, me destruit.