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Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:35 pm
by aaron
i agree on the downclimbing to a rest idea, same thing as down climbing to the ground. what if you're 5 pitches off the deck and downclimb to the belay ledge? same as the ground or the same as fuzzies rest? i believe it is still an onsight but that's just me.
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:37 pm
by SikMonkey
On the no hands rest, you are still actually on the route. When you hit the ground and start back up, it constitutes another attempt. There are no mulligans in onsighting. Like I said though, if it's an onsight to you, then onsight away!
Mj
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:43 pm
by rhunt
Artsay, I agree it's a personal thing when you keep it to yourself...but for spraying that would be different.
If one is resting, even no-hands, on a route he or she is still climbing. A double knee bar, although obvious technique to most climbers is not always easy for climbers who never need to use that rest trick. So in my opinion, that would not be the same as resting on the ground.
Sizing up the routes conditions is all a part of the pre-on-sight process. If you choose to climb a route with suspect conditions..ie maybe wet...then you have to accept to consequences. It all part of the game.
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:44 pm
by allah
Ok look at it this way, in alot of areas there are link ups and extensions. For instance, The extension of Bohica. If somone were to work bohica and get it completely wired and then go and do the extension first try would you count that as an on-sight? Just curious to what you all would think.
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:45 pm
by rhunt
aaron, a belay ledge is the same thing as the ground
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:47 pm
by Guest
I should lock this thread and ban you all
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:53 pm
by Horatio Felacio
from rhunt and sik's arguments, i would guess that stick clipping and/or climbing to the first bolt, clipping, then downclimbing would nullify any onsight.
sik and rhunt, have you guys ever onsighted anything?
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 6:00 pm
by SCIN
rhunt wrote:aaron, a belay ledge is the same thing as the ground
So rhunt, I've just onsighted every pitch of Astroman. I am on the last pitch. I start to climb off of the belay ledge then realize I'm gonna need more gear. I downclimb ten feet to get the yellow Aliens I'm gonna need.
I just blew my onsight of the most famous free climb in the world?
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 6:10 pm
by rhunt
allah wrote:Ok look at it this way, in alot of areas there are link ups and extensions. For instance, The extension of Bohica. If somone were to work bohica and get it completely wired and then go and do the extension first try would you count that as an on-sight? Just curious to what you all would think.
Dude great point..not sure how to answer that..humm
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 6:12 pm
by Artsay
Horatio nailed it. Same thing in my book.