Page 5 of 6

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:36 pm
by vic
ray,
Go and live in France for a season, and then come back here. Long trips will have you looking at the Red with a new prospective - not to mention how much fun that could be.

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:39 pm
by captain static
I think the real problem here is that Johnny won't tell him where the super secret mega-crag is :cry:

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:56 pm
by t bone
It has been hard to keep motived to after all these years, considering i live in indy.Ray Lex is close to alot of killer climbing. Just go down to T wall, Suck Creek and send all those hard cracks. There still so many sport climbs in the red for me to send. I just love to climb no matter what the drive is.Heck i still got many Indiana choss piles left to conquer!!

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:21 pm
by rhunt
SCIN hasn't done Mercy yet...hehe Come on brah, it is the best 12b sport climb at the Red. Not sure why you and Johnny have it at 12c but ok then it is the easiest 12c at the Red. You should try to flash it!

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:24 pm
by Power2U
T-Bone,

Have you sent that heinous vert 12a at Unlikely Wall?

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 7:46 pm
by t bone
Yea, I did the fa on that in 91. The one andy howe called wisdom lingers? The real name is the Stain. I went there when andy first developed that place and onsighted all the routes in few hours. Then saw that blank streak and threw a rope on it. Pretty damn hard. andy put the bolts on it. heinous smearing and stemming. too bad it so short.

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 12:33 am
by Artsay
I don't think the problem is the lack of routes at the Red but more so the lack of a certain style of routes that Ray likes. Mercy is a BEAUTIFUL route for sure! Ray got on it once and fell going to the anchors so, yea, he could go back and redpoint it but will redpointing one stellar route satisfy his craving for steep cracks? I think the best option mentioned is Wicked Tribe's offer. So Yo...Wicked...hook him up, man!

He did put up two boulder problems this past weekend for those looking to get dirty with some wide roof cracks just a few feet off the ground. Crag and Crakaluffagus.

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 5:56 am
by andy_lemon
t bone wrote:Yea, I did the fa on that in 91. The one andy howe called wisdom lingers? The real name is the Stain. I went there when andy first developed that place and onsighted all the routes in few hours. Then saw that blank streak and threw a rope on it. Pretty damn hard. andy put the bolts on it. heinous smearing and stemming. too bad it so short.
We should do a good deed for the climbing community and go replace some of those bolts... put glue ins so the locals will quit taking the hangers. And I don't care what any Indiana choss pile climber says about that place, I think it is a great experience. I mean, look at the view? Where else can you climb a 25ft route and get that much exposure. :lol:

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 4:22 pm
by Power2U
Wisdom Lingers....that's it...cool I didn't know you did the FA on that. Unlikely is a fun little pile :D I heard it recenlty gor re-equipped..is that true?

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 5:49 pm
by the lurkist
Ray,
I feel your anguish. Surely it can't be so bad as you say. However, if it is, I haven't heard anyone mention to clear answer to your dilemma. Big South Fork. Soutern Kentucky, just off the I75 corridor. 2.5 hrs from town. All the roofs, steep cracks, sandstone you could every want in a lifetime. For volume of stone it makes the Red look anemic by comparison.