RRC Archives

They put a hurt'n on me, have not doubt. But its a good kind of pain.
It took awhile, but the shoulder works fine now. I did a fair amount of weight work to build up some support around it. And I did it a couple years before I started climbing, so it was in decent shape before I started abusing it by climbing.

Okay, late up date.
Ran into a really inspiring climber (but really, there ain't too too many who aren't) at an indoor gym and she told me that the worst part of the healing process is going to be to break up the scar tissue to get back to full flexibility. Dang, she's right. It hurts a heck bit more than the original injury.
Some times I cry into my pillow at night, "why Mysterious Spirit? why me?"

Well, sometimes it hurts to heel....(oops, I meant heal).

Do the alphabet thing someone else recommended. Also practice balancing for 5 seconds on each ankle. then work yourself up to 30 seconds. do it for maybe 5 sets. once you get up to 5x30, close you eyes and start over at 5 sec intervals. That will really strengthen you up. once you have down. take a fluffy pillow and stand on it. start again with eyes open at 5 seconds. then go to eyes closed. if you get through all that. just start extending the eyes closed time past 30 seconds.

VA, adjust to the circumstance. When I was given the go ahead to start exercising again, I had to do some compromising. I rolled a towel up and put beneath my bum ankle when doing floor yoga poses. That helped a lot. I also wore an ace while running, and gradually loosened it up. I can do a mile now without binding. I can finally do a semi-decent triangle pose which was the most painful of all, but I just gradually lowered my supporting arm until I reached the floor. Keep doing the alphabet. That really helps with flexibility. Icing helps. Good luck! oweys suck!

Oh yeah, listen to dingo.

I have no tendons or ligments worth having in my ankle anymore thanks to HS sports. So I just take some pain killers and deal with the pain. And after climbing I used to like a bottle or 151 or everclear, but now I dont drink anymore so I just deal with it.

DaggerX

Meadows wrote:I just suffered my 6th sprained ankle and it was severe. However, it healed very quickly because experience has taught me well. ...I was back to climbing and running in 2 weeks.

Meadows, did you use an aircast or other type of brace for running and/or climbing when you started back? How soon before you were able to jam cracks with that foot? Were you able to do any boulder problems and land on it okay?

Sandy, I did use an aircast but never for any excercise. I got an ace bandage sock for running (make sure it is not tight or you won't heal due to lack of circulation). It just depends on you. Eat right and avoid alcohol at this time (it hinders circulation). I can't stress how important it is to ICE and stretch and do what you can to strengthen it. Don't stay off it once you get some healing in (2 weeks). Also Massage it and use your anti-inflams

When I started back to running, I was limited to 4 miles and even now 8-10 will give me a lot of pain. HOwever, I'm due for new shoes too, which will help.

Jamming, even 3 months later, is a no-no. I have trouble on 10 and 11 crimpy climbs, but it's awesome strengthening for the ankle. Start out lite and then decide when you can go. I don't really boulder that much, and if I do on a vertical wall (which is how it happened) to test the beginning moves, I get someone fairly big to catch me if I come off. Those tendons are weak and not capable of preventing a break, which is one of their purposes. So take precautions. I have jumped and landed just fine on it, but I"m still nervous. You're the best judge for your ankle, but be a critical judge. Good luck and let me know how the healing goes!

Also, if you climb in the gym, just do easy climbs and keep your shoes off.

I am super tenative torquing my left foot in a crack but high stepping and then loading the ankle is still the worst for me.