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Re: true story

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:23 pm
by One-Fall
We really are lame.

Re: true story

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:24 pm
by pigsteak
jeff and I were commenting about how lame-o this site had been and were looking for fuel..as soon as lday blew a gasket I thought we were onto something...lol

we need nasty, alan evil, and redpoint back....

Re: true story

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:41 pm
by rjackson
I think Lee meant that 'sport' climbing is lame...

Re: true story

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:09 am
by LK Day
"lday blew a gasket" Your imagination is starting to get the best of you, piggie. I don't think any of us have ever been calmer, or more boring.

Re: true story

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:17 am
by climb2core
Bolting cracks got your nuts in a bunch.

Re: true story

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 2:28 am
by pigsteak
ok so back on task....this was not a sport route at all. but clearly the fa and ffa definitions are not standardized across disciplines. trad climbers will hook or crook their way to the top, and then somehow claim a pure ascent or a better style? surely the three trad climbeds left in the universe jest...

howie wants the adventure of ground up intact, yet mr. day asserts that tina toproping to the last highpoint was the norm...

talk about delusions of grandeur.

Re: true story

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 2:44 am
by LK Day
Or so you twist things. Go lead Tower of Power, Meteor Maker, and Last Day and tell me there's no adventure involved. I dare you.
You'll have the advantage of sticky rubber, big cams and buckets of chalk. They'll be pieces of cake.

Re: true story

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 2:57 am
by Spikeddem
And here I was thinking that El Cap had been free'd

Re: true story

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:13 am
by LK Day
Spikeddem wrote:And here I was thinking that El Cap had been free'd
Oh, it has. Ask Tommy Caldwell about the style of his ascents. No funny stuff.

Re: true story

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:30 am
by ynp1
LK day, there is plenty of funny stuff when it comes to tommy's ascents of el cap. He raps in from the top with 1000's of feet of rope and scopes lines. Far from ground up... But he is at a different level then all of us, so...


About the ground up thing... I assume that FA means first ascent. And FFA means first free ascent, right? If you start up a virgin crack and you fall and then you hang dog and aid your way to the top... Did you get the FA? Yes. You can name it and grade it 5.9 C1 (or what ever it was). Then when it goes free, the grade should be changed and if the free climber wants to can change the name, cool.

Push yourself, and climb in the best style you are able to do. Stay safe, but don't limit your capability.