RRC Archives

Josh'O, a thankyou also and to everyone else that developes routes. You'll learn that no matter what you put up someone is not going to like it. It doesn't matter what kind of route or the quality of the job or rock. I've heard people bitch about some of Porter Jarrod's routes! Thanks again to all who create for the sometimes unapprecitive masses! Climb Safe.

Jarrard?

clif wrote:Jarrard?

are you being a condescending prick again clif?

if i can cite another-

dollyjn wrote:You are welcome to message me privately, ask when you see me, or even give me a call. Thanks
I believe this thread is in celebration of [edited to: the bolted routes] for others. Again, congrats to the RRR on a job well done. Namaste

but you'll have to remind me of the first time

I could care less about slabs going up wherever, however I would like to encourage people to use stainless steel hardware, especially on black streaks, seepy rock, and low-angle routes that are prone to rapid corrosion of zinc-plated carbon steel bolts and hangers. In addition, relatively slabs and vertical routes like this are very easy to equip with affordable stainless steel glue-in bolts if stainless steel 1/2" diameter 5-piece Powerbolts are out of your price range.

Stainless hardware should be the standard in the Red unless the route is severely overhanging or the route is near your limit and your are concerned about misplaced bolts. Trust me, replacing trashed old gear in (sometimes less than) a decade or two is kind of a pain in the ass.

Is Team Suck going to set up a trade in your new 5-piece for glue-in's day? I have 3 boxes of Powers bolts. I guess I could sell them on Ebay.

If the donations were rolling in, then this could be an interesting possibility. Unfortunately, at present donations are not able to support this sort of exchange, so as usual it falls on the equipper to use the best possible gear available (personally, I feel a community RRG slush-fund to support stainless bolting makes great sense!). When it comes to slabs, seepy piles, frequently condensed rock, black streaks etc., without question the best long-term choice is stainless steel. Of course, stainless is also ideal for the longevity of bolts on dry overhanging routes as well, but for now just getting people to use stainless gear on slabs and other frequently wet routes would be a great start.

I bet there are a few 12 climbers that can't climb 10 slabs very well. It's probably a good addition.

ha. hey v1, how's that Ankle Brute project coming

Fun route Josh. I love a route where you have to solve the puzzle to keep moving.Thanks for putting it up, enjoyed it!