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Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 6:06 pm
by climb2core
dustonian wrote:OK I really need to get some work done now... dammit Redpoint!!


LOL, I have lost hours in reading through his insightful posts. This dood is taking climbing to a whole new level.

Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 6:17 pm
by dustonian
Jump to 17:40...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hJuAN6P ... r_embedded

"This is my favorite project at Cherokee. It was a project for a long time. I don't know if I got the FA, but I like to think I did..."

Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 6:30 pm
by nik
.

Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:22 pm
by toad857
...did he ever send twinkie?

Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:27 pm
by clif
i believe on april 16 at 2:30 he hurt his finger, then he had to make a lasagna for a neighborhood picnic so had planned on making a phone call that evening to schedule a belayer for the redpoint but misdialed.

Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:24 pm
by steep4me
During my first few years of climbing (early 90's), we thought July was a good time to go up to the Red and climb. Also remember 100+ degree days at Little River Canyon's Crazyhouse wall--bakes in the sun all day. We would just bring a towel to wipe off sweat, sunscreen, bugspray etc... Cold beer in the car for the end of the day; Then go swim at Cave Springs on the way home. Hard to imagine now, when I stop climbing outside in May and wait until late Sept to venture out again.

I do remember my husband (a kayacker), saying we should be on the river instead of at the cliff. I would just stare and blink..... thinking.... "what's he talking about, it's fine out here."

Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:29 pm
by climb2core
Heading down tomorrow. I guess I am still a gumbie

Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:30 pm
by Redpoint
nik wrote:
dustonian wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gQ0xKWO ... r_embedded

The soundtrack is killing me!!

"I decided to go to a new secret bouldering spot I found with my GF. It was full of problems, and the rock quality is amazing; limestone full of crimps, slopers, jugs, and sidepulls. The left side is easy but challenging for beginners. The far right is the V2, next to that one on the left is the V1, and the long traverse is a V1. The V1's don't look very hard in the video, but it's the handholds that make them hard. There is one where you wrap your thumb around a tiny nubbin and you pinky and ring finger can hold on to a small edge. The traverse also has a sloper and a slopey crimp. The V2 is made difficult due to the slopey holds during almost the entire second half of the climb. The landing zone for the place takes a little getting used to since it's on a hill, this can be seen at the end of the video (which is the V1 without the direct start). I wish I could tell everyone where this bouldering spot is, but sure enough we didn't climb there a single day without a caretaker coming by and giving us a speech about it being private property. He said he wouldn't call the cops, but if he keeps seeing us there all the time..."

No I wonder the climbing media didn't pick up this new hotspot!!

Or this beaut: "October 14: A much needed rest day... nope I went tree climbing. I solo lead two 70 foot trees. I was able to see downtown from the top of one of them. Next I did some tree bouldering for a long while. "

And of course this ol' chestnut... http://vimeo.com/31777191

OK I really need to get some work done now... dammit Redpoint!!

i have also noticed that, whilst rock climbing, it has frequently been the handholds that have caused difficulty for me. ha.
Ya the video was so bad I went ahead and added a bad song to it as well.

In my defense that place is in a neighborhood, and owned by the developers, and so I figured it was fair game. The guy cutting the grass said we can come there as long as it's not too often, but if we came all the time he would have to take action, which quite confused me since it's normally a yes or a no. I haven't been back since though.

I have climbed some juggy routes with great holds at hesters that were still hard, usually because they are shouldery, or campussy.

Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:31 pm
by bcombs
Redpoint wrote:..campussy.
I will use this from now on.

Re: Gumbies are like honeybadgers

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:34 pm
by dustonian
who you callin' a campussy??