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Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:28 pm
by LK Day
pigsteak wrote:lol...ur welcome mr. day....

still, I find it difficult to see how this works..these blank faces with no bolts have been there forever, and then as soon as someone else takes the time and money to develop it, suddenly it is the "must do" route for the poacher....?
That would be "clueless and disrespectful". It's a judgement call, I know, but if someone is tying up good lines and not making steady progress, then put 'em out of their misery.

Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:30 pm
by pigsteak
my issues has always been this: there will always be someone stronger than the developer who can come along and onsite a route. always. I have no problem giving someone a route at my limit IF they reimburse me for the hardware.

Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:37 pm
by LK Day
Do keep in mind that this conversation has pretty much been about trad or "sprad" climbing, on public land, not sport. There won't be many drilled anchors on these routes, so the co$t is pretty insignificant. But even in the case of a sport route, nobody took your gear. If you're in it for the glory, then maybe that's the wrong reason. :lol:

Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:52 pm
by pigsteak
good point..but we all know, sport or trad, figuring out the moves is half the fun. I want to be the one to clean the lichen, to first chalk up the holds. that is the fun for me, deciphering the moves.

Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 5:02 pm
by rjackson
I too find that the puzzle is almost always the draw... And in trad, you get the added bonus of figuring out the gear.

Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 5:02 pm
by rjackson
I too find that the puzzle is almost always the draw... And in trad, you get the added bonus of figuring out the gear.

Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 1:24 am
by jobryan
Big shout out to Andrew Gerring for sending Welcome to Ol' Kentuck on Saturday.

Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:21 am
by dustonian
Nice send Andrew!

Also props to the indefatigable Russ Jackson and Scott Hammon for getting the FFA and FA of two uber-classic 5.10 cracks... and, I might add, ground up!! ;)

Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 3:28 am
by LK Day
Way to go Andrew, Russ and Scott!

Re: Speak Up!

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 1:13 pm
by rjackson
Very cool Andrew! Congrats!