ReBolting the Mother Lode

[THB]

i ended up doing it without using that foot...

.

Nice Spray

yes, that was my intent....

oh, by the way... i also did it naked, climbing upside-down, oh and i was soloing it too...

[THB]

I guess you have never hung all over a route. I have, and promptly sent second go.

correct... i always send promptly on my first go... sorry you don't have my luck...

The matter is that she has a right to be on the route as much as someone who climbs it blindfolded as a warmup.

i agree... but, it's not a matter of rights...

i have the right to take my non-climber friend out to the crag with me and slap a grigri in his hands and have him belay me on a route... but then when i fall and deck (which wouldn't happen, because i don't ever fall...) because i didn't properly teach him how to use the grigri it's up to the others at the crag to step in and deal with the situation...

i wouldn't do that because it's irresponsible of me... just like a 5.10 climber shouldn't get on a 5.12 route because it's irresponsible of them...

and i'm not saying that this particular girl had no right to be on that particular route... i'm just using the scenario as a generalization... it happens all to often that someone gets on a route that is way out of their ability level just because it has fixed gear on it and there is no consequence to them directly... but the consequence instead gets placed on the route and on the fixed gear, and then it gets placed on climbers like you and i that are donating our own money to help maintain these routes...

oh, and i also have the right to pee and poop where ever i want in the middle of the woods, because i don't care about LNT ethics and i don't care if you step in it when you are hiking up to the crag... and i don't care because i'm leaving from my road trip in a week, so it's not a problem to me, i'll just leave it up to the locals to clean up my mess...

As far as tissue tiger, it doesnt have perma draws but is substantially more "polished" than chainsaw, so mentioning it in your argument makes no sense.

yes, but tissue tiger tiger is 4 years older than chainsaw, and i've seen tissue tiger with fixed gear on it at times... and i'd be willing to bet that tissue tiger gets more gang-banged by 5.10 climbers than chainsaw ever does based on the other routes that are at military compared to the other routes that are at the lode...

there are way too many other factors that go into it to just say that mentioning tissue tiger in my argument makes no sense.

my point is, go get in tissue tiger if you haven't been on it recently... it's quality has declined significantly compared to a few years ago, let alone compared to when the route was put up...

But I will say thanks for donating, as I have done the same.

you're welcome, and thanks to you too for your donation...

[Jeff]

Nice work guys!

[vertical1]

oh, and i also have the right to pee and poop where ever i want in the middle of the woods, because i don't care about LNT ethics and i don't care if you step in it when you are hiking up to the crag... and i don't care because i'm leaving from my road trip in a week, so it's not a problem to me, i'll just leave it up to the locals to clean up my mess...

It is not your right to pee and poop where ever you want in the middle of the woods unless you own the woods, then by all means....

yes, but tissue tiger tiger is 4 years older than chainsaw, and i've seen tissue tiger with fixed gear on it at times... and i'd be willing to bet that tissue tiger gets more gang-banged by 5.10 climbers than chainsaw ever does based on the other routes that are at military compared to the other routes that are at the lode...

there are way too many other factors that go into it to just say that mentioning tissue tiger in my argument makes no sense.

my point is, go get in tissue tiger if you haven't been on it recently... it's quality has declined significantly compared to a few years ago, let alone compared to when the route was put up...

I think the quality of Tissue Tiger is fine, at least as of late April. Were it not for the polishing, prob would be 11d/12a, so thank the masses for your 12b send.

My response has to do with you criticizing other people for hanging on a route without justification. Like I said, I have hung all over routes before. Now a proper example of someone being on something over their head would be the following:
I was at Left Flank last year, had given a beta run on Wild, Yet Tasty (sorry I couldn't flash it), when a small group showed up and wanted to get in the lineup. Guy almost sends (he grabbed the chains to clip), but then gets his girlfriend to go up the backside of the rope on TR. Now she hangs all over it, spending 30 minutes on the route, to finally lower at the 4th bolt, all the while others are waiting.

If your example showed details of someone who really shouldn't be on the route, I would have completely agreed, but what you said, I had to disagree with, possibly due to misinformation, or lack of information.

On a lighter note, putting SSGI bolts at the Lode will be a huge improvement! Great Idea all those involved.

[THB]

It is not your right to pee and poop where ever you want in the middle of the woods unless you own the woods, then by all means....

no shit, i was being sarcastic about a problem in the red that drives me crazy...

I think the quality of Tissue Tiger is fine, at least as of late April. Were it not for the polishing, prob would be 11d/12a, so thank the masses for your 12b send.

No, it's still 12a...

My response has to do with you criticizing other people for hanging on a route without justification. Like I said, I have hung all over routes before. Now a proper example of someone being on something over their head would be the following:
I was at Left Flank last year, had given a beta run on Wild, Yet Tasty (sorry I couldn't flash it), when a small group showed up and wanted to get in the lineup. Guy almost sends (he grabbed the chains to clip), but then gets his girlfriend to go up the backside of the rope on TR. Now she hangs all over it, spending 30 minutes on the route, to finally lower at the 4th bolt, all the while others are waiting.

well, i'm so sorry that i didn't give a "proper" example... but, thanks for your example which sounds almost identical to my example... you are supporting my argument. thanks.

well, this was a productive and positive thread until i derailed it with my comment about perma-draws... i was just putting out my opinion that i don't feel that routes like stain, buff the wood, ale-8-one, chainsaw, and kmitj need perma-draws... but i understand that you might have a different opinion than me, which is totally okay... agree with me, disagree with me, either way i don't really care... this argument has gotten to be petty, i'm over it...

[SunshineGIRLdolphins]

Hey THC, that's all you got?

[THB]

below me, trebek

[SunshineGIRLdolphins]

its "SUCK IT" stupid THC

[THB]

you can "suck it"